Dimensions
36" x 17" x 36"/91 x 43 x 91 cm

Volume
361 l./80 gal./95 US gal.

Aquarium type
Tropical freshwater community

Aquarium details
very difficult to set up due to the depth,everything had to be moved by canes with a hook on. Tank weighs just over 1/2 tonn and holds just over 300ltrs. driftwood from the beach tied to it is java fern and fluvel sucker pads screwed into the ends and placed on the side of the tank to add more layers to the depth. only been set up for 4 weeks so not clear yet. please note get a tank this deep and be prepared to spend hrs trying to catch fish.excluding the kuhliis thanks for looking welcome any reccomendations

Fish
goldfish the wifes . white sailfin mollies,black bar endlers,comet platties,kuhlii loaches,bronze catfish,albino catfish,siamese fighter.3 emperor tetras 2 golden nugget plecs next couple of days there will also be galaxy rasporas and cardinal tetras .

Plants/Invertebrates
elodia,amazon sword,cabomba,valis,amazon frogbit,java fern,java moss. blue ramshorn snails,glass shrimp,1 caramel striped apple snail, 5 striped mystery snails.

Filtration
Lac 885 1200ltr per hour + co2 unit

Lighting
2x AQUARGLOW 30

Substrate
Sand

Decor
Mopani ,driftwood,lava rock

Background
Blue

Water parameters
Ph 7.4 nitate 0 temp 78

White worms are an excellent live food for fish and are incredibly easy to raise. White worms (Enchytraeus albidus) are white-coloured worms which range in size from approximately 3/4" to1 1/2". If you are familiar with other live foods, they fall between tubifex and grindal worms in size. White worms are particularly good for conditioning fish for spawning. They are eagerly eaten by most fish and are suitable for a wide range of fish since their size is appropriate even for the smaller fish. My cultures are raised on Spirulina, which keeps the fat content low allowing you to feed more.

White worms are very easy to culture, use a plastic shoebox. You can often find these handy containers on sale at pound stores. Worms need to "breathe", so if the cover is airtight (although most are not) cut a hole in the cover and fill the hole with a piece of  foam.

Fill the container about with about 3-4 inches of  potting soil. Add water to wet the soil. The wetness should be such that tightly squeezing the soil should result in a few drops, but not a stream of water, dripping from the mass.

Add your starter culture of worms, and some food. Although many articles recommend milk-soaked bread for feeding the worms, my personal thoughts on this is that it creates a worm with a high fat content.To rapidly expand the population, try cooked rice. White worms love cooked rice. When first starting the worm culture, it is probably best to bury the food to stave off mold. The trick here is to feed the worms enough so that they reproduce quickly, but not so much that the food goes uneaten long enough to become moldy. If you do get some mold, just spoon it out and add fresh food (but not so much this time!).

There are a variety of food options. A mixture of breadcrumbs, kitchen waste (vegetables), and a bit of milk or water blended together works well. Instant oats, a boiled potato, or just white bread soaked in milk/water will also work. Food that goes bad should be removed to prevent mold and other bacteria infesting the culture. The blended mix or the soaked bread will provide the moisture needed in the soil, otherwise the soil can be sprayed once in a while to keep it moist.

Once your worm colony is thriving, you should be able to leave the food on the surface, which will facilitate harvesting of worms, as the worms gather on the surface to eat.

When the worm population is really going, the worms will form in big clumps near, and on top of, the food. Just use blunt tweezers to grab a blob of worms and drop them into the fish tank. Once the fish realize that the white things wriggling in the water are food and are tasty, they will eagerly snatch them up as soon as they hit the water. White worms like it fairly dark, and will start to dig back into the dirt once the shoebox cover is removed, so gather all the worms you need as soon as you open the cover, put them into a cup, and then drop the worms into the individual tanks.

If you need to gather a large amount of worms, another method is to put worm-laden soil into a sieve with its bottom barely submerged in water. Position a light directly over this set-up. The heat and light will eventually drive the worms out the bottom of the sieve and into the water, ready for feeding.

At times I have noticed that the population will get extremely dense, so dense that the worms are actually crawling up to the lid. Because the culture will sometimes crash at this density, I usually remove about half of the soil (with its worms) to a new container, and add more fresh damp soil to each container. Because cultures sometimes crash, I make sure to always keep at least two cultures going. This also evens things out as production fluctuates.

For maintenance, just throw in more food every few days and add some more water if the soil starts to become dry. Worm cultures are fairly hardy and can survive weeks, possibly months, of neglect (as long as they don't dry out)- although they may need care and feeding before you will be able to harvest enough to feed fish again. White worms usually do better at cooler temperatures, keep in a garage or shed to stay between 55 to 65 degrees for best results

These tiny critters are really not worms but rather nematodes. Nematodes are one of the most successful life forms on Earth, and there are over a thousand species of them adapted to live in everything and anything from the soil to the guts of other living creatures to oatmeal. They are extremely prolific and are slightly smaller than baby brine shrimp. It is the kind that likes oatmeal that we fish keepers are interested in here - they make a readily accepted, nutritious first food for small newborn fry. Larger fry, and even small adult fish (think Neons), and Cory cats will also eat them with gusto.

Mix up a batch of regular, unsalted oatmeal according to the directions on the box. We make ours a little thicker by adding less water than recommended and cooking an additional 15 seconds or so in the microwave. Put a 1/2" of the mixture in the bottom of a used margarine or Cool Whip tub, or any similar container that you may have, and let it cool to room temperature. The worms live on the surface, so putting more than a half-inch layer in the tub doesn't really help any. Add a spoonful of worms from an active culture as a starter. Keep the container covered to keep the flies out and the worms in (though a few small holes in the lid away from the edge a bit do help keep moisture from condensing into droplets in the tub - a paper punch works well for this). Once the oatmeal batch has reached room temp, you can add a pinch of active yeast to the top, if you want. This helps the culture take off, but isn’t really necessary to making a good culture, so it is up to you. After a few days you should notice the mixture starting to become a bit soupy. It will glisten in the light - those are the worms wiggling around. A healthy culture will have a mild, yeasty kind of smell, whether you have added yeast or not. In one week you can begin to harvest worms.

Harvesting is easy: Place the tub in a warm spot (like on top of a lit aquarium light fixture) for twenty minutes or so to get the worms crawling up the sides in good numbers - you don’t have to warm up the tub, but it helps - then use a plastic spoon, small stick or the side of your pinky to scrape the worms off the sides of the container, then swish the spoon, stick or finger in a small container of water to rinse the worms off. You can use a small dropper or pipette to suck them up and feed them to your fry. Fed from the top, they slowly sink to the bottom, but are probably best delivered just above the immediate vicinity of the fry in a tank.

Microworm cultures can last in a useful state for several weeks, but the time can and does vary. When the contents of your culture tub turns a deeper, darker brown, or the oatmeal has nearly been all consumed by the worms, simply make up another tub of oatmeal, transfer a spoonful of the soupy, glistening nematodes to the new container, and throw the old one away.