Handling

A textile may be more fragile than it first seems.

• Remove all jewellery or accessories that could catch on a textile.
• To be on the safe side wear white cotton gloves. These can be purchased at chemists and are inexpensive.
• Knowing which areas are weak will help you avoid further problems.
• If a piece of costume is on a hanger, use the hanger to hold it. A strong grasp of a shoulder can cause creasing or splitting.
• If you are moving a small flat textile, you can carry it safely by sliding a piece of clean card underneath.
• Costumes should be carried in a white sheet across the forearms.

Cleaning

It is tempting to approach cleaning antique textiles the same way as one would modern ones but as textiles age they need a different approach.

Even hoovering can cause further damage. The suction could be strong enough to pull the fabric apart. Flat, sturdy textiles may be cleaned by covering them with a microfilament net (make sure the raw edges of the net are covered or they can catch on the fabric) and using a vacuum cleaner on a very low power setting. If fibres rather than dirt are coming off, stop immediately.

Any further cleaning should be discussed with a textile conservator. Never be tempted to use boiling water or such things as soda crystals with old textiles.

Storage

There are a number of specialist storage solutions designed to protect textiles.

Acid-free tubes - large flat textiles are best stored face upwards on a large tube. It is difficult to find acid-free tubes so if you are using regular rolls find one with a large circumference (at least the size of a coffee mug). Cover with four or five layers of acid-free tissue. This will need to be replaced when it starts to yellow. Plastic piping can also be used for rollers. Make sure it is clean and the ends are smooth.

Carefully roll the piece trying to keep it smooth. You may need help doing this if the object is large. When finished, cover by rolling acid-free tissue over it allowing it to extend beyond the textile. Tie at the ends with cotton tape. If it needs more ties, make sure the ties aren't pressing into the textile.

Acid-free boxes - try to purchase boxes that allow textiles to be stored without having to fold them too much, as folds can turn into splits.

Start by lining the box with the tissue letting it extend over the edges. This can be folded over the final layers to keep it in place. Heavy items like beaded dresses should be boxed rather than hung. Never use blue tissue, the dye can rub off onto the textiles and it's acidic.

If you have to fold textiles, soften the folds by rolling up tissue and place it inside the fold. It is also helpful to use the tissue to pad areas (not too tightly) that may be crushed.

Hangers - to safely hang a costume, find a sturdy hanger that follows the shoulder shape of the garment (this is very important). It should not extend beyond the sleeve. Avoid wire hangers as they're not strong enough.

Cover the hanger with polyester wadding (check to see that it is flame proof) and then with a sheet of clean white or off-white cotton or polycotton.

General housekeeping tips

• Don't use plastic. It can attract dirt through static electricity, develop condensation which can encourage mould and when it chemically breaks down it can give off degradation products.
• Coverings should be of clean white or off-white cotton or polycotton. The best coverings are shaped like garment bags.
• Try to give textiles enough hanging space so they are not crushed against other items.

Information courtesy of Sharon Manitta.

Glass has a natural beauty that, with the right care and attention, can preserved for a long time. As we all know though, it's all too easy to break or chip glass and, while this might not bother you with the day-to-day glass in your kitchen, it's sure to be upsetting if you damage a prized antique.

Glass care

Careless handling and display of glass can result in breakage and chips and cracks developing that will mar its overall beauty. To avoid any disaster, it's worth observing some basic rules.

• Always carry pieces with two hands, ensuring that you remove any loose pieces like lids beforehand.
• Never wash delicate glassware in the dishwasher - the temperature and chemicals are too harsh.
• Don't put glass in hot or cold water. Sudden changes in temperature set up stresses within the glass.
• Avoid putting glass in direct sunlight or near a heat source such as a radiator or spotlight.
• To avoid stains from cut flowers in a vase: change the water every two days, rinse well and remove plant debris before it dries on. Any liquid can stain glass if left in contact too long.

Cleaning glass

Glass should be cleaned with a certain amount of caution as certain types may be prone to damage from moisture. Cut and engraved glass can be easily scratched and abraded. Painted glass is especially vulnerable. If you're in any doubt on how to proceed, consult a conservator who specialises in glass.

For glass that's strong enough to be cleaned, follow these steps:

• Remove any rings or bracelets before starting.
• Pad the washing bowl and drying area with clean lint-free cloths or mats to protect the glass from knocks.
• Never put more than one piece of glassware in the bowl at a time.
• If you're in a hard water area, used distilled or softened water.
• Use a soft-bristled brush with gentle rubbing to get into difficult areas.

When drying stemware, hold the bowl in one hand and gently wipe the surface with a clean, lint-free cloth. It's easy to twist off the stem if a vigorous action is used.

Information courtesy of Sharon Manitta

Looking after antique jewellery can be tricky. Our simple guide helps with the basics.

General care tips

Jewellery can be made from many materials and with many techniques. Because of this, cleaning jewellery should be approached cautiously. Start with gentle, simple brushing with a soft, clean, small paintbrush.

Precious stones can become dirty and a slightly more aggressive cleaning may be needed. It is important first to check that settings are secure. Some pieces can be set with glue and these should not be cleaned with any liquid as it might loosen the setting.

One of the chief causes of 'dirty' stones is hard water. This leaves a chalky residue. If you live in an area of hard water, clean with distilled water and a small amount of diluted washing-up liquid. Use a small, soft and clean paintbrush. Dry thoroughly with a lint-free cloth.

Make sure you do your cleaning in an area where you could easily recover any piece that becomes detached.

Information courtesy of Sharon Manitta

Cleaning

Follow these tips for looking after your antique toys:

• Cleaning should be kept to a minimum. Dust can be removed with a soft brush. Using water on a cracked item can allow water to get into the substrate and cause more damage.
• Never try to 'touch up' items with paint.
• Mohair was often used on 19th-century dolls and this was set using a sugar water solution. Trying to wash and set a doll's hair could remove this original material.
• Doll's clothing is a prime target for cleaning and repairs. The same rules that apply to textiles care are true here. Old textiles do not react to modern cleaning techniques. And using tap water and soap flakes can actually cause damage. Find out more about caring for textiles.
• If you want to make new clothes for a doll, make sure you save all the original clothing. Replica clothing will not give the same historical information and will lower the financial value of the doll if you wish to sell it.

Repairs

We have all seen damaged teddy bears that have been 'loved to death' and then suffered from bad repairs. As they age, the fur will become more fragile and stitching into it may cause splitting.

Just as an artist is not the best person to repair a painting, someone who makes teddy bears will not have the skills to repair treasured bears unless they have trained as a conservator.

Items made of textiles such as teddy bears should be examined by a textile conservator. Some items, such as dolls made of ceramics, may need the help of both a textile conservator and a ceramics conservator.

Many items like train sets and drums fall into the area of expertise of those trained in archaeological conservation or social history conservation.

While some businesses undertake specialist repairs, ensure they are professionally qualified. Conservators are taught how things fall apart and it is important to know this before commencing repair.

Display

Follow the below guidelines on displaying your dolls and teddies:

Toys should be kept where they are safe from fluctuations in heat and humidity. They should not be in direct light. A glass case will keep dirt and smoke (both coal smoke and cigarette smoke) away from the objects.

Display units should be stable so they don't easily tip over.

Don't use glue or adhesive tape around your items and never string items up with wire.

Storage

Whether it's in the original packaging or has been heavily played with, if you want to put a toy into storage, you should take time to examine it. Firstly, find out what is it made from as this will give you an idea of possible problems.

For example, a wax-headed doll shouldn't be left near heat sources or near lights, as it can easily melt. Conversely, cold temperatures can cause cracks.

Metal toys can rust if they are kept where there is a moist atmosphere.

Lead soldiers can also be dangerous to children because of the lead content and sharp edges.

Plastics can degrade into a sticky mess. Some early plastics and PVC give off fumes which can cause degradation. If a surface is sticky, cracked, powdery or has darkened, it should be kept away from other items as the fumes can cause damage to other pieces.

Wooden toys may have broken sides or edges. Wood also gives off fumes as it breaks down. It's best to store these items away from other organic materials such as paper and textiles.

Items should be stored separately and wrapped in acid-free tissue. Plastic items should be put in well-ventilated boxes.

Information courtesy of Sharon Manitta.

How many of us take the time to look at some of the wonderful hand-made rugs and carpets that we walk on? Have you ever turned over a rug or opened up the pile to examine the fine knotting used to make these pieces of textile art? The skill and time it takes to make these heirlooms should prompt us to follow a few guidelines that could extend their lives.

General care

Like other textiles, exposing rugs to rapid changes in temperature and humidity is not good. Open fires and treasured floor coverings don't mix. Direct sunlight may result in fading, so if your rug or carpet is in a sunny area, close the curtains at times of bright sunlight. Narrow diameter shoe heels (smaller than a two pence coin), no matter how high or low, cause a great deal of damage both to floors and carpets.

Take care when moving rugs and carpets. There's less chance of damaging the pile if you roll them up with the pile facing outwards.

Adhesive shouldn't be used with textiles. Glued patches do not help the stability of a piece and while underlays may be very useful, they shouldn't have adhesive on them. Don't use nails or staples to secure rugs or carpets either.

Pets can inadvertantly do a great deal of damage. Claws cause damage to the pile and urine stains are difficult to remove (as well as attracting insects). Check during the spring and summer for signs of insect infestation. If a piece has signs of clothes' moths or carpet beetles, isolate it from other textiles and contact a textile conservator immediately.

Cleaning tips

When vacuuming your carpet or rug, don't scrub but use a gentle action with a regular rather than a rotary head and work only in the direction of the pile.

If there is a spill, put some layers of white paper towel or clean towels above and below the stain and try to absorb as much liquid as you can. Change the paper or cloths frequently until no more liquid is coming out. Leave some clean layers above and below in case more comes out as it is drying. Don't lay anything heavy on the wet pile as it could crush it. Some rugs have had unethical treatments such as covering areas of lost pile with paint or felt-tip pins and these may run when in contact with liquids. If you see dye coming out contact a textile conservator immediately.

Don't use foam cleaners or other chemical cleaners. These are only suitable for your modern wall-to-wall. Don't use remedies like salt, as this can cause more damage. Further cleaning or repairs should be left to a conservator.

Information courtesy of Sharon Manitta