LEVI'S STILL #1 JEANS IN THE WORLD

Marilyn Monroe in Jasper, Alberta filming
the western 'River of No Return'.

One can't talk about western or 'cowgirl' fashion without focusing on denim blue jeans. There are three well known western brands: Levi's, Lee, and Wrangler but there is also a 4th company called Great Western Garment's (GWG) that had four factories in Canada. I'm featuring Levi's first because they were the first overalls to cater to cowboys. Interestingly, a survey was made in 2008 (Denimology) and Levi's are still ranked the #1 brand of jeans in the world! I also noted in an eBay guide that Levi's are ranked #7 for the most searches on jeans!

In 1850, in San Franscisco, Levi Strauss opened his first factory to produce rugged waist-high overalls for miners taking part in the 1849 Goldrush. Originally he used a brown canvas material but once that supply was exhausted he started importing a sturdy indigo dyed fabric (known as serge de Nimes) from Nimes, France! In 1873 a patent was obtained for the 'copper rivets' on the pockets and the double-arc stitching found on the back pockets. By 1879 his pants were selling for $1.46 and were also being used by the cowboys working on ranches.

In 1886 the 'two cowboys with horses trying to pull apart a pair of levi's' logo (emphasizing the strength of the material, thread and rivets) was adopted and a leather tag was also placed on the waistband. When numbers were assigned in 1890 the famous 501 'button fly' riveted pants were born!

In 1928 the company registered the word 'Levi's' as a trademark. In the 1930's the company adopted the cowboy and his Hollywood counterpart as it's advertising and image-building icon! Lady Levi's were introduced in 1934 and sold along with the 501's, rodeo shirts and other western wear. During the 1930's western ranchers were unable to support themselves agriculturally so many turned to tourism or 'dude ranches'.  The easterners loved the cowboy's daily garb and the popularity of western movies also helped develop a western 'mystique'. To further capitalize on brand identification Levi's registered the trademark 'red tab' sewn along the back pocket of the pants in 1936.

While the copper rivets worked well they did have some drawbacks. Legend has it that the crotch rivet was taken out after a company executive sat too close to the campfire! Cowboys complained that the back pocket rivets scratched their saddles and school teachers complained that those same rivets scratched the desks. In 1937, the back rivets were concealed and in the mid-60's they were replaced with extra heavy stitching. It also wasn't until the 1960's that Levi's were called 'jeans'.

Movie stars also played a role in popularizing Levi's - Marilyn Monroe made jeans look 'sexy' and James Dean portrayed the 'rebel' image. Levi's really gained popularity with teenagers in the late 60's and early 70's.  In fact, by the dawn of the Vietnam War era, Levi's shrink-to-fit jeans had come to stand for rock-and-roll freedem, sexual liberation, working-class integrity, rural soul and urban funk. Denim jeans had transcended the mere status of a piece of clothing to become what is said to be a 'worldwide social and cultural phenomenon'.

'College kids' wore jeans during the protests of the 60's and at the Woodstock music festival in 1969 there was a 'sea' of indigo.  Levi's had moved from producing mere working clothes into the world of 'high fashion' ! By 1977 Levi Strauss & Co. became the largest clothing manufacturer in the world.

The oldest Levi jean jacket dates back to 1910 and Levi Strauss has a collection of Limited Edition jean jackets that are exact replicas of the orginals from 1936 to 1960. These jackets retail for $150.00 and sell out as soon as they hit the floor. The vintage jean jacket has become a new collectors item and has created an entire industry of dealers, retailers, and collectors that search the globe for vintage jean jackets to resell at upscale boutiques. Fashionable - let's face it -  jeans, a matching jean jacket, and cowboy boots are about as 'working cowboy' as you can get! Isn't that one of our great American dreams?

Levi Strauss & Co. is still the world's largest brand-name apparel manufacturing company, but today all Levi's are made offshore! The last Levi Strauss & Co. factory in San Antonio, Texas closed in 2004 as did the last Canadian owned Levi-owned GWG factory in Edmonton, Alberta.  Check the manufacturer's white label inside the pants for the country-of-orgin if you wish to have a little piece of North American 'vintage' history!  Levi Strauss & Co. Heritage has lots of great historical photos, letters and information for collectors.

Some eBay trivia - in 2001 a pair of jeans was found in a pile of mud in an abandoned Nevada mining town. Levi's was contacted and verified that they were made around 1880 and were also probably the oldest pair in existence. They sold on eBay for $46,532.00 - to the Levi Strauss Company.

I have a Canadian-made stonewashed Levi jacket with copper buttons and a Canadian-made retro copper Levi belt buckle listed from April 24 through May 4. Check them out today and own a piece of Canadian Levi History!

Check out DENIMOLOGY.....for those addicted to premium and vintage denim!
This website is at the cutting edge of denim high fashion - you can see your favourite stars in jeans! And yes, there are some neat photos of Brittany Spears and Kelly Rowland wearing Levi's!

http://www.denimology.co.uk/

This fringed satin western shirt with snaps is heading off to England!

 Further reading - Western Shirts: A Classic American Fashion by Steven Weil & G. Daniel DeWeese.

THE ULTIMATE COWGIRL

 My vintage white satin western shirt sold to a Country singer in New York State.
Her e-mail nickname is none other than Calamity Jane!

Martha Jane Cannary aka Calamity Jane dressed like a man for most of her life. Calamity, considered a rebel, drifted around the West on a succession of drinking binges which she called 'high lonesomes'. She enjoyed disturbing the peace and was one 'sassy' piece of work. Calamity was also kind-hearted and nursed many a smallpox sufferer back to health or until they passed away!

Doris Day portrayed Calamity in an early movie but I really do think that Anjelica Huston may have been closer in personality to the 'real' Calamity in the movie called Buffalo Girls!

As horses were replaced by cars I reckon Bonnie Parker of Bonnie & Clyde fame and Thelma and Louise would suit the image of modern day 'outlaw' cowgirls.

Today a real cowgirl isn't likely to be country singer wearing a fringed crop top and miniskirt. Instead, she's often a formidable force to be reckoned with - a hard working, calf wresting, horse riding phenomenon!

Further reading: The Cowgirl Companion by Gail Gilchriest