The key to shining on the red carpet is a dress that plays up a star's best assets in a shade that flatters her complexion, in a style that doesn't fight for attention. The hair and jewels should be restrained yet glamorous like Penelope Cruz.

 

BEST DRESSED

 

Penelope Cruz in Versace had a grand picture in her mind of a royal event so she went dressed as a contemporary princess.

 

Reese Witherspoon in swinging hair with bangs and Olivier Theyskens strapless number for Nina Ricci is what young stars should look like. Not like a fossilized Elizabeth-Taylor wannabee.

 

Jessica Biel in a simple flow of color

 

Maggie Gyllenhaal in sophisticated blue black Proenza Schouler (not cooler, shooler or whatever The View's Elisabeth Hasselbeck was mangling).

 

Nicole Kidman's adventurous Balenciaga (yes, from some angles the bow looked like a Christmas ribbon) but mostly it was traffic-stopping.

 

Helen Mirren. Immediate kudos for finding something so light, effortless and balletic.

 

DRESS LESS

 

It takes more than a pretty smile to wow us mean-spirited, get-a-life acolytes of the red-carpet.  Cameron Diaz seems to think it takes green earrings, a huge breast-obliterating flap, an asymmetric ruffled hem, silver shoes and tousled hair. If it sounds like it's too much, it was. And how about losing the brown hair?

 

About the only thing more disappointing than Eddie Murphy not winning an Oscar was Jennifer Hudson's Leontyne Price -meets -CZ Guest outfit. It didn't even look like an Oscar de la Renta frock. No matter. Jennifer we still love you. And no doubt you'll redeem yourself. Right?

 

Kelly Preston reminds us that a little leopard goes a long way. If you hear the call of the wild.....You don't always have to answer, Kelly.

 

Beyonce's pistachio-colored Armani -a case of a dress that tried too hard with a slit up to there (it's the Oscars not the Bootylicious video), a strange nude lining, and an awful beaded harness strap

 

Naomi Watts just shouldn't stand next to her friend Nicole Kidman...ever, but especially not on Oscar night. Yellow is hard for any one to wear and when it's falling off you...well....

 

Anne Hathaway. It was her first so she gets to try again. (But can I just ask, what was that Rorschach test doing on her dress?)

 

NEITHER HERE NOR THERE...DIDN'T LOVE 'EM, DIDN'T HATE 'EM

 

Gwyneth Paltrow in Zac Posen

 

Cate Blanchett in Armani - regal but a little severe

 

Jennifer Lopez in Marchesa (Is she deliberately trying to make us think she's pregnant?)

 

Jodie Foster - a little overkill on the blue

 

Next Post: AWARDS NIGHT STYLE TRENDS AND NOTES ON MERYL STREEP

 

*Just kidding about Meryl (who inspired the title of this blog).  But if one was going to bother, one would need a post devoted entirely to Meryl's distinct fabulosity. And wasn't it fabulously sick that her strange get-up was Prada.:) Is Prada taking credit? Love it!

Day 4

 

DON'T FOR GET TO THANK....

 

LA is so gloriously sunny today but plenty of worries among Hollywood insiders about the weather on Sunday. Will it be cold and rainy? Always a problem for the stars on the red carpet. Who wants to get drenched in an expensive dress, mascara running down your face? Or worse, be obscured from the paparazzi by a big black umbrella.

 

Coolest awards booty idea. Handbag designer Lauren Merkin has created gold leather "cue card cases", as she calls them. They look like the little leather holders men use to carry their credit cards, but they are designed to hold the nominees' notes. You know, just in case they win, have to go on stage and pull out their notes. So instead of pulling out a crumbly piece of paper balled up in their hand, they pull out this little case.

 

The cases have little reminders printed on the back like: "Don't forget to thank your husband" and "Always act surprised"

Day 3

 

Not much time to do anything, see anything other than stylists and clothes in eBay Style Suite at the Four Seasons.

 

The talk of the LA is what's happening to Britney. Various theories from entertainment insiders: she's on drugs, Britney never had a real childhood and now she's trying to recapture it, her parents ignored her, Britney's heartbroken by her betrayal and split with K-Fed.

 

No doubt she's cuckoo, but it's very sad to see the little girl with everything, act like she has nothing. Nothing worth keeping it together for. She's obviously hurting a lot.

 

So many parties going on but can't get to any of them. Jamie Foxx hosts party for Jennifer Hudson. Party for designer Gilles Mendel. Party for Radar magazine.

 

Four Seasons's bar scene is an all-night party that gets started as early as 6 p.m.

Day 2

Arrived in LA, and already a stylist dropped by the suite -- 8 p.m. but Hollywood is still working. Getting ready for the Oscar parties which go on all week and for the Academy Awards itself.

Waiting for the fabulous Douglas Hannant fall pieces to arrive by overnight mail from NY.

It's hard for designers to send all their clothes to LA for celebrities when they have the opportunity to sell the clothes to retailers. Tough call.

So many designers don't bother with the LA circuit though they would love to.  Selling to stores is more important.

Permanent fake eyelashes - a trend inspired by celebrities - are so hot.

They last for about two to four weeks. My hairstylist - Sharon of ShaPazzaz - applied a pair of perm fakes to a woman who must have been upward of 60. Immediate glamour.

Then into my local drugstore and the cashier - upward of 18 - was batting some big ones. $25 a pop, she said. Sharon says it's now safe and quick and everyone's getting them done. Just don't get the lashes wet. Wipe your face. Don't wash.

At the eBay Style Suite at the lavishly glamorous Four Seasons Hotel, Peter O'Toole sat in the bar knocking them back. Dining on grilled whitefish as the waiter started putting two tables together and making a table for six.

The seats were shortly taken by Reverend Al Sharpton and company. Thought I should invite him to suite to check out our fashions and $1.8 million Royal Asscher diamond necklace.

Well, you never know. He might be interested. These days everyone wants to look like a celebrity.

 

Day 1

 

Can't wait to get to LA - sunshine, blue skies - all that dreamy stuff. Here in NY, there's ice on the ground, wind-chill factors and just generally harsh weather for days now.

 

People slipping and falling left and right.

 

Speaking of dropping to the ground. I now own a pair of Baby Phat knee-high boots. Very Kimora Lee… Which of course is quite scary.

 

I mean that I would be channeling the overly-fabulous KL. But it was forced upon me by circumstance that had to do with crashing to the ground 60 minutes before I was to go on the TODAY Show and busting my knees and my suede Adidas boots.

 

Oh well. I just felt the need to explain why I owned a pair of Baby Phats.

 

I ordered the last of fashions for the eBay Style Suite which this year will be at the Four Seasons Hotel. We'll set up on Tuesday with amazing finds like a red, beaded Judith Leiber Minauderie. Exquisite beyond imagination.

 

Also excited about the Valentino and Versace dresses we found on eBay. Some expensive. Some unbelievable bargains.

 

 Fabulous guest designers have been invited to be a part of the suite - Douglas Hannant, Armando Piquer, Stephen Burrows and Adrienne Landau. But topping it all will be these, jaw-dropping diamonds from Asscher.

 

Guards on duty all the time. Celebs and top stylists expected to drop by. Feel the jewels, try on the dresses and maybe find something to wear on the red carpet or to all those parties they have to go to. Hope there'll be no fights between stars that both want the same dress, bag or diamond necklace.

 

Although, to be honest, I guess that might be kind of good. Just as long as there's no name calling or pulling hair. I can't bear it when things get ugly.

DAY 4

Where's the car? The car scheduled to pick me up and take me to Bryant Park never arrived.

Doesn't everyone in NY know it’s show week at the Bryant Park tents?

Shows are this Monday. Not Monday February 12 as the dispatcher had apparently recorded in the computer. Car takes forever to reschedule so I miss Carolina Herrera AND Nanette Lepore.

Make it to Jill Stuart.

Hi Kelly I shout to Kelly Rowlands.

Hi, you’re keeping warm today? she says.

And before I can answer, she’s out of earshot as the crush of photographers, editors and autograph seekers pushes her toward Jill and me toward the exit.

Kelly’s at the Jill Stuart show where models stomp up and down the marble runway in imposing black leather boots tipped with silver-color metal.

Jill's doing the mod thing this season, and channeling Balenciaga.

A small woman with a digital camera runs up to me.

May I take your picture?

It’s not a star thing. Just carry a hot bag or wear anything Prada or Balenciaga and you’ll get treated like a celebrity. The Japanese are always taking pictures that show up in magazines where your photos run vertically down the page instead of horizontally like here in America.

Most of Jill's business is in Asia so the Asian editors and retailers are out in full force and I take the opportunity to clock THEIR handbags for a change. The Japanese were doing “it” bags before we knew what IT was.

I see:

• A Marc Jacobs Stam bag
• Chocolate brown leather Hogan
• Huge black leather and leopard print Betseyville by Betsey Johnson
• Two awesome metallic gold bags

Enough of bags, time to run downtown to Marchesa where designers Keren and Georgina Chapman are staging an exhibit. Beautiful evening frocks posed on models—one more beautiful than the next—the dresses not the models.

Faves:

• Pale chiffon shift covered in serpentine sequins and embroidery.
• White tuxedo
• Black and cream tuxedo dresses
• A glorious cream gown with gradiated black bodice which Keren said took almost two months to make and which my mind said looked very Alexander McQueen.

Designers were worried when the ladies burst on the scene. Several stars have worn the clothes and many believe it’s because Georgina's boyfriend is Harvey Weinstein. (Weinstein looks pretty good these days, slimmed down and wearing Prada suits—which he says Georgina makes him wear. She's right. No woman wants to go to the trouble of looking gorgeous and walk next to a man who looks like a schlep.)

Recall Sienna Miller in beautiful gold and white at Golden Globes but with that unfortunate Heidi braid.

Georgina and Keren pose for pictures with Vogue's Andre Leon Talley while I run out into the chill to race uptown to Max Azria’s show. Best collection yet since Max and Lubov Azria spun off Max Azria from BCBG.

All poetic and funky—like Lubov—large cardigan coats over flippy dresses.

Backstage John Legend signs autographs, takes pictures. Lubov says she's giving him a ride to the Grammys in LA, where she lives. Does she mean a ride on her jet? I'm not sure. But I guess. Wow.

Think I had dinner in the car—a salad—but can't remember. Narciso Rodriguez show downtown at 8 p.m.

Dancing is really what's my heart, said Claire Danes at the show.

It's what I do to support my movie career.

Ha, ha. It really was funny.

Said she has two movies coming out and meanwhile is choreographing two dance pieces.

Waiting for show to start. Jerry and Jessica Seinfeld run from backstage (with bodyguards) to take their seat.

Julianna Margolis, looking really good, poses for pictures with some guy at her side. Boyfriend maybe?

Show is over. Rush backstage to see Narciso. Congratulate him on splendid sweeping coats, finely tailored double-face jackets and athletic cocktail dresses.

It's time to go from the chic serenity of a Narciso show and collection to the happy insanity of a Heatherette show and collection. Had no idea how insane. The club kids are out in force to see their idols: Make up cover boy Richie Rich and Traver Rains. I can't get by the thick crowd on the steps of Bryant Park.

Recognized by security, who wave me in. Thank god for security. But inside, it's even worse. No one I recognize as a legitimate fashion professional can get anywhere near the check-in desk.

Better off trying the model entrance. Invite a few adventurers to come along and we storm the backstage entrance.

PR waves us in. A tall young man in suit and tie tries to tag along with my group but is body blocked by security. He claims to be a basketball player.

With the 76ers. Gadalis, Udalis, O’Galis. Something.

I don't know of him. And surrounded by gay guys, none of them recognize him or can vouch for his credentials, I explain. He gives me an understanding look. And they just snicker and pay him no mind. I feel bad for him, towering above the fashionably dressed, evil fashion flock like a lost giraffe. So I speed dial my son to check. Alas for Mr. Basketball. He's not home.

I leave him behind beseeching the security guard as my colleagues threaten to leave me behind.

Take my seat and entertaining show begins with acrobats dressed in leotards and neon lights. No, really. More on the show later.

Everyone says it’s worst than a Baby Phat show.

DAY 3

 

Up early to do some yoga poses since I cannot make it to the gym. Downward Facing Dog. Ouch.

 

Throw on a cozy black jacket with a hood and head to the Tracy Reese show.

 

Color and excitement for fall. Love it. Peach, orange, blue and lime in pretty dresses, interesting coats. Everything with tights.  NY is freezing. Twenty-two degrees. But who’s that woman in dark glasses with the Vidal Sassoon haircut chatting backstage with Tracy after the show?

 

It’s Alicia Keyes almost unrecognizable with her bone straight hair.

 

Several shows later and a coffee break, I wander into the largest tent at the shows to await the start of the Diane Von Furstenberg presentation.

 

Huge.  There must be no less than 1,500 people in here.  One of them is busy no-nonsense business writer Teri Agins. Taking her seat next to me in the front row, Teri gives a cheery Hi, who are you? to the woman sitting on the other side if her.

 

I break out laughing as Destiny's Child's Kelly Rowand looks at Teri a little dumbfounded. She can't tell if Teri's serious or not. 

>

 

Oh, are you one of those uhm, oh Destiny’s Child, right?

 

Yes, says Kelly.

 

Oh hi, Michelle, right?

 

At this point I had to jump in.

 

What a great reality check for Kelly, who was attending her first Tracy Reese and DVF shows. She still has some mountains to climb to be recognized when she comes out with her second solo album later this year.

 

Once Teri settled into her seat I got a chance to chat with Kelly some more. She topped of her black Gucci shoes, black pants and black and white DVF top with a sable jacket.

 

B and Mama gave it to me a couple years ago, (for Christmas) she explained, referring to Beyonce and Tina Knowles.

 

Oooh. Very generous.

 

I hustle backstage after the show to congratulate DVF on a highly evolved collection. I almost bump into Susan Sarandon and Ellen Barkin. Ellen looking so much richer than the last time I saw her. Maybe it's the chic leopard-print jacket.

 

BTW, I am missing two leopard-print jackets and I wonder if the one she’s wearing is mine. It looks very similar. I stifle the urge to go up to her and whisper Seeeeeee of Luv.

 

It's late. The day has rushed by. 9:45. I'm patient. Very Zen, but un-amused when handlers and security would not let me by to talk to Bono on the balcony. His wife Ali Hewson and Rogan Gregory were introducing the fall 2007 line for Edun, the environmentally conscious line of clothing they design.

 

The show is downtown far from the tents at The Box, a cool new club space decorated in a romantic, evocative style with fading mismatched wallpaper, velvet curtains, chandeliers and said balcony.

 

The clothes were shown on a funky, theatrical group called The Citizens Band performed a kind of political burlesque, variety show.

 

Bono wouldn't budge, but I convinced the public relations handlers to send out Ali.

 

Mission accomplished I stepped out of the club at 10:45 and shivered on the sidewalk. Briefly compared notes with WWD and Glamour editors taking a smoke outside. Then goodbye. They were off to Katy Rodriguez show; I was off to drop in on DVF's invitation-only dinner at IndoChine. I thought I might catch dessert.

 

TIME WITH RACHEL ZOE

 

Find myself seated next to Hollywood stylist (Lindsay, Nicole) Rachel Zoe at the richly colored and decorated Matthew Williamson show. We've met a few times, but never had time to chat.

 

Rachel's in a white vintage Dior fur coat over black and white YSL vintage dress. Accessories: Black tights and shiny patent heels.

 

She’s a Virgo and her husband’s a Libra. I’m a Libra and my husband’s a Virgo. I don't really understand the match up on paper. So we go to it.

 

Virgo’s are really obsessed with detail. They want everything to be perfect. They're insane. They're perfectionists, she says ( I guess describing herself).

 

Libras are just like Ok, that’s cool. They're laid back. Whatever. They never get mad. But when they do. Oh, they really get it. (I guess describing her husband).

 

But it's genius. The woman’s a genius and not just with clothes. Makes sense to me. I have my marriage figured out after years of wondering about my Type A husband and I.

 

Speaking of Type A.

 

I flew in on red eye last night, Rachel offers.

 

Her book comes out later this year. The party is during NY show week in September.

 

None of her girls are coming to NY this week. They’re all busy working, she tells Jim Shi of The Daily whose sitting next to us.

 

Not sure who her girls are - Lindsay? Nicole? Teri? Paris? No idea. Haven’t read my US lately but I listen intently.

 

Actually, I want Rachel to dress me. I mean I look good. I can pull it together when I have to. But she has like a little extra oomph. A little glamour thing going but still kinda cool. Could be the vintage factor or the humongous cocktail rings. Will study more and steal the look if I can’t hire her.

 

DAY 4

 

Let's start at the end.

 

Marc Jacobs's superb collection. Class and status, retro grand living, American style paraded down Marc's runway. But he subverted proper Americana with unexpected touches like jumpsuits and origami bows on dresses.

 

Edgy mixes of Alpaca and sequins, mismatched suits and brightly colored coats poked holes in the notion that elegance must be bland and boring.

 

Marc himself looked fit. He's cut his hair and slimmed down.

 

I'm going to the gym, Yoga, eating fresh fruit. I feel great, he said after the show.

 

Though he's a little guy, his muscles are busting through the sleeves of his blue Commes des garcons shirt.

 

Even his thick-rimmed glasses and pasty complexion are gone. He looks tan and healthy.

He seems to have re-imagined himself.

 

Speaking of re-imagining oneself...

 

Lil Kim, one of Marc's favorite people and within one hair of looking like Michael Jackson's secret fantasy, visited backstage. I'll see you at the party later, she coos to Marc as she and long-time manager Hillary Weston, greet the designer.

 

FOOTNOTE

Women are going to love next fall. An explosion of unexpected color. Marc, for instance, mixed navy with hot pink. He used cranberry and pale blush pink. Elegant coats were in khaki and navy, but also cerise pink. High heel Mary Janes and high heel oxfords were equally colorful. And there were plenty of tights in every hue.

 

All photographers by James Hercule

FASHION WEEK DIARY

Fashion Week. It’s here. A thousand shows in nine days. Well , it seems like a thousand shows. Excited and horrified in equal measure. The designers, the publicists, the celebrities, the editors, the crashers, the models, the photographers, the FIT students, the security guards, the gawkers—a cast of thousands. Mood: Expectant.

DAY 1: Thursday, February 1

Did the Today show Thursday morning, talking about fashion for tweens, the age between 9 and 13 when girls are becoming baby fashionistas. As Meredith Viera pointed out, there are a lot more fashions available now for these kids. Baby Phat, H&M, Polo Ralph Lauren and Rocawear have cute, trendy looks that don’t turn a girl into a woman before her time.

The girls—future fashionistas Laura, Beckett, Kai, Iman , Kate and Pamela—were poised and stylish. Although I got four hours sleep the night before, I had so much fun with them. Had a moment to chat with Ann Curry about the fashion community’s initiative to help Darfur—a situation that she has been, thankfully, bringing into the light.

Went straight from the NBC studios into show week and made the mistake of wearing high heels—about 3 1/2 inches—all day. I never wear stilettos or anything close during show week. Running from show to show all over town, flats at least don’t leave you with foot pain worse than a toothache. I have visions of hip replacement surgery 20 years down the road. Too much time in high heels make you take leave of your senses. For instance, I called to see if a car was available to take me two blocks from the Elie Tahari presentation to the office.

I soon forgot about my feet while chatting with Elie about his women’s and men’s lines. Fabulous patent handbags including the "Rory” named for his wife. Trapeze dresses, fur trims, a cool anorak, and babydolls over leggings. Red. Burgundy, gray, mochas, teal. Sporty but luxurious.Very Mod for 2007 but not too retro.

Took cab uptown to meeting for big end of week show, Designers For Darfur, at Steve Madden showroom with designers and organizer Malcolm Harris.

Never been to the Madden showroom and for the first few minutes all I can think of is that he went to jail. Not a prejudice mind you—so many good people have been to or are in prison. But it was just a little weird.

Anyway, snap and I was over it! Madden is underwriting the show to help victims of the dreadful killing and terrorizing of millions in Darfur. I also saw Alexander Allen, one of the best stylists working today, and heard that he will be styling the show.  I was thrilled.

A manicure and pedicure express with Dora, who gave me a free bottle of nail polish. Mental note to visit Dora again—quick, friendly and minimum chatter. What little she did say included that she visits Martha Stewart twice a week to do Martha’s nails. I wondered how my nails measured up to Martha’s, but I was afraid to ask such a question. Dora might have thought I was a reporter—wink.

Douglas Hannant makes clothes young socialites want to wear and there were plenty of them at his 8 p.m. show. Show almost an hour late so ran to get coffee with three other fashion friends. Two had just seen Laura Bush at a reception and thought the First Lady spoke eloquently about the dangers of dying from heart disease but looked nondescript in her signature red.

Nothing nondescript on Douglas’s runway. Loved the gold flapper dress with thousands of tiny gold beads, black beaded and embroidered frocks, gold mini, Fortuny-esque pleated gown, and combinations of delicate lace and velvet.

Had his own version of nipplegate with models’ breasts popping out of their fancy frocks.

The skinny model debate rages on this week. Everyone checking to see if they can see models’ ribs or clavicles.

DAY 2: Friday, February 2

How did Cynthia Rowley find the minutes to see a fashion show before she staged her own? Rowley, in a cute brown bubble coat dress, took time out to support good friend John Bartlett.

Rush backstage to congratulate John on his terrific show with patchwork theme in sophisticated monotone palettes. Red added frisson of life to somber gray and cable cricket sweaters.

Waiting to go backstage saw Wall Street Journal’s Cheryl Lu-Lien Tan, who said WSJ will be blogging from the tents. With all this blogging I'm concerned that anyone will get to see any shows.

By the time I got backstage, John was already accepting congratulations. One major trend already worth noting: Air kissing versus cheek busses has increased considerably. Not sure why. But I much prefer cheek buss. And one is better than two, the European version. When you go to European shows you can double kiss your self silly. I’d rather not turn the other cheek.

John is to fashion what Meredith Viera was to the View. No, not a mother of three. But the smart, earthy one. So backstage there were plenty of sincere man hugs and congrats from respected  fashion arbiters.

Spacing out—perhaps with the thought of watching 50 shows in the next few days—Simon Doonan (Barneys and VH1) bounced in with Queer Eye For the Straight Guy Carson Kressley.

Carson in high boots and just-stepped-out-of-the-salon hair had graced the front row at Douglas Hannant’s show the night before.

The shows have drawn Ashanti and Tim Gunn, whos office at Parsons School of Design is just a brisk walk from the Mercedes Benz fashion week tents. Tim, Project Runway’s stern den mother, has a new gig. He’ll still be on PR with Heidi but instead of being a dean at Parsons, he’s now creative director at Liz Claiborne.

 

A wave of PC nausea threatens to do me in at the Marc Bouwer show.

 

If going fur-free, wool-free and leather-free could be this beautiful more people would do it. However, I face a dilemma after watching Marc's show where every dress deserved an Oscar or at least deserved to be worn to the Oscars. The problem: How to go backstage to congratulate Marc in my screaming red fur jacket.

 

Before the show, a nice PETA (People for the Ethical Treatment of Animals) representative trotted across the runway to chat with me. He handed me literature and a CD with Pamela Anderson on the cover. When the nice PETA guy turned his back I promptly threw the CD under chair because I’m not sure that Pam has anything to say that I'm interested in.

 

Turned full attention to runway and line sheet. Every designer has a sheet of paper or a little printed guide describing what you are seeing on the runway - fabrics, colors, shapes and sometimes the name of the model wearing the outfit are all included.

 

Saw Marc backstage. Gave a hug. Everything was fine. May have thought my screaming red jacket was fake or may have chosen to avoid confrontation. Not sure. Leave feeling relieved.

All photographs by James Hercule