The Mistress of Copper Mountain (PART 1)

WIP #19: The Mistress of Copper Mountain (PART 1)
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December 20, 2007

I am starting a new sculpt "The Mistress of Copper Mountain". For now, I am collecting the material, refreshing it in my memory - this is from one of my childhood books. In a nutshell, it is a mythical female entity who appears as a beautiful enchantress or a lizard.

Some reference material:

Here is an outline of the legend:
Once there lived a very skillful young man called Danila, he was very skillful in making things of stone. People called him a real magician of his craft as he created real masterpieces. Danila had a bride, Katya and they loved each other very much. Everything in their life was good and peaceful until Danila came to the copper mountain for some stone to continue his work.

That mountain has been always connected with some strange things and mysteries and the local people believed in a legend about the mistress of the copper mountain, who lived inside. She was an enchantress and she could turn into a lizard or just disappear, so she used to play some wicked tricks with people. Besides, she had a magical beauty. But when she saw Danila, a young handsome man, she liked him and she wanted him to work inside of her mountain. She tried to charm him, to entice him with her magic tricks and Katya begged him to stay with her, but in vain. Danila's fanatic passion for his skill made him choose the copper mountain and one day he just disappeared inside of it.

It was rumoured in their village that Danila was dead, but poor Katya didn't believe it and expected him to change his mind and come back to her. One day she was walking in the forest and she decided to go to the copper mountain. When Katya came, she was so desperate and miserable that tears began pouring down her cheeks and she continued crying until she heard Danila's voice. She couldn't see him, but she could hear that he was calling her, so she began to call him too. But suddenly instead of Danila she saw the Mistress of the copper mountain.

The Mistress was very angry and said that she wouldn't let Danila go. But Katya insisted and Mistress suggested that Danila himself should decide whether to stay or to leave the mountain, but the only condition was that if he chose Katya he would lose his talent. It was so difficult for Danila to make his decision because he loved both his skills and his bride. But finally he said that he chose Katya because he loved her very much and he couldn't stop thinking about her all the time being in the mistress' possession. The mistress of the copper mountain was so impressed by the power of the human love that she allowed them to leave.

The whole legend of the Stone Flower can be found here:
http://www.humanflowerproject.com/index.php/weblog/comments/the_stone_flower/

And this is a good detailed description of the Mistress of the Copper Mountain appearance:
http://ufoexperiences.blogspot.com/2006/06/mistress-of-copper-mountain.html

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December 27, 2007

Lou cut me some pieces of manzanita that I am going to use for the base.

With a few additional cuttings, it looks more complete. Nothing is attached yet, I am just putting things together and brainstorming.

The Magic Drawer...

produced these:

After some demolition work with a hammer and pliers, I got a bunch of nice looking
"stones, gems and minerals", which I am going to work into the base. The Mistress' appearance should be accompanied by a tasteful display of hidden underground treasures of the Copper Mountain.

I happened to have an 8" tall Modular Brickhouse armature laying around which I made a while ago, it will be perfect for this sculpt. I will need to chop the wire on one of her legs and add is the brass tubes to make her stand on the base. Also, I need to cut the tubes for her hands modules. The head module is already there, it is removable. Once I am certain of the pose, I will seal the joints with epoxy to freeze the armature in the pose. The armature is made with 17 gauge steel wire, wound together with 24 gauge steel wire, then covered with Magic Sculpt epoxy. The tubing for the leg will be 1/8". The hand modules will be 3/32 tubes. The head module is 3/32" tube, covered with thin wire and epoxy, it fits 17 gauge wire and easily slides on and off. It will need to be secured later with Magic Smooth epoxy. Hope that helps :)

talk to you later. thank you for watching. Natasha Red October.

PS. The hand tubes I mentioned earlier are hand modules - I will make them separately, bake, then slide on the arm wire like gloves. The hand tubes come to the elbow and are eventually secured in place with epoxy magic smooth.

It is easier for me to make and bake hands modules (and head module and feet modules) separately. It is ok to mess up and start again, for example. It is also easier to position the modules just right - the module will rotate on the wire, until I secure it with epoxy. The same with head modules and feet modules. I make them all separately and when I am pleased with all, assemble them together and sculpt over the connections.

And the whole thing - this way of making an armature - is called Morezmore Modular Brickhouse Armature.

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December 30, 2007
Ok, here we go. Step by step instructions on how to make a sculpt stand by using a base and leg tube construction, as I promised.

Materials used
- a set of telescoping tubes (1/8 +3/32 in this case)
- a tube cutter
- a needle file
- magic smooth epoxy
- toothpicks
- flat nose pliers and regular pliers
- a wet rag for cleanup
- completed wire armature
- base with hole drilled in it

The main idea is to attach a tube to the leg of the armature and secure a telescoping tube in the base. The base tube fits into the leg tube. The finished sculpt has only a small hole in the bottom of the foot. The tube going up the leg and the snugly fitting telescoping tube installed in the base make it possible for a sculpt to stand upright securely and firmly and without wobbling, and to be removed and reinserted, telescoping tubes nicely and smoothly sliding in and out.
Something like this:

 It is simple, but takes a bit of doing.

Here you can see all things collected, including tube pieces cut to desired length, namely:


- armature with the weight-bearing leg wire cut off
- about 0.5" piece of 3/32 tube (intermediary tube - for snug connection)
- an above-the-knee-high piece of 1/8 tube (leg tube)
- my base with the hole drilled
- about 0.75" piece of 1/8 tube (intermediary tube for snug connection - it goes inside the hole, my base is about 0.75" thick)
- an under-the knee-high piece of 3/32 tube (base tube). You have to measure it all so that everything fits and is of the correct length before mixing the epoxy.
- Magic Smooth epoxy ready to mix

Securing the base tube into the base. The small piece of 1/8 tube (intermediary tube) is not necessary but might be a good idea if the drill makes a hole which is a bit too large for the tube. That intermediary piece of 1/8 tube makes the connection more snug. Anyway, fill the hole with magic smooth goo with the help of a toothpick, insert a small piece of 1/8 tube into the hole, stuff a bit more magic smooth into that little piece of tube, insert the 3/32 base tube. Make sure it is not sticking out on the bottom (if the hole goes all the way through the base). Wipe out the area around the tube, leave it alone to cure. That is all for the base tube.

Attaching leg tube to the leg. The leg wire is gauge 17 which fits snugly into 3/32 tube. That is the reason for a small piece of 3/32 intermediary tube - just to make a snugger more secure connection between the leg wire and the 1/8 leg tube. Anyway, spread magic smooth over the wire, put a small piece of 3/32 tube over the wire, spread more magic smooth over the piece of 3/32 tube, put 1/8 leg tube. Make sure both legs are of the same length, smoothen magic smooth all around with a wet finger and leave it alone to cure. That is it for the leg tube.

A side note. On the picture some of you the eagle-eyed ones will actually see a rod in the base. I am using a rod and not the tube only because I have a leftover piece of the rod and want to use it up. To avoid confusion, I am calling that rod the base tube here, because that is what you most likely will be using.

The leftover magic smooth went to "freeze the joints" in the armature and glue together the wood pieces on the base. Here is what I have now:

All of these will need to cure for at least a few hours or better overnight.

After a piece of tube is cut off with a tube cutter, the tube opening is smaller (inevitable because the cutter blade pushes the walls inward). It needs to be widened up to accept the telescoping tube. You can do it with any sharp metal point, the ones I tried were an ice-pick and a needle file. Insert the point inside the tube opening, tap, rotate and work it open. I like needle file, because it sort of files and smoothes the edges as it is rotated inside the opening. If the outer edge of the tube needs to be corrected, a regular metal file does the job.

Keep epoxy away from the sliding surfaces of the tubes (both the outer and inner surfaces) - try to work clean. If epoxy gets on the tubes outer sliding surface, you can scrape it off later with x-acto knife, but if it gets inside the tube and hardens, nothing can be done, you will have to start all over.

If not clear, you can ask me a question in the comments area, I will be happy to clarify. English is not my native language, so it is possible some of the things are not as clear written here as they are in my head.

Talk to you later, thank you for watching. Natasha Red October

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January 1, 2008
Did I say "MEASURE EVERYTHING"?

Ok, this is good now. Continue tomorrow.

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January 4, 2008
After 3 days of attempts and few squooshed heads, I finally made a head I can live with and baked. It it the first time I am using Puppen Fimo.  

talk to you later, thank you for watching.