Spinnerbait Blades ~ Painted Black White Shad

These blades are attractively painted as shown  on the outside.

The inside is unpainted nickel-plated.

Both inside and outside are clear-coated with a transparent durable finish.

Here is a size chart and photo comparison for these blades:

Style	Size	Length	Width
Colorado	#2	.890"	.680"
Colorado	#3	1.010"	.725"
Willow	#4	1.920"	.680"
Willow	#5	2.280"	.820"

10 Spinnerbait Blades ~ Colorado #2 ~ Black White Shad

10 Spinnerbait Blades ~ Colorado #3 ~ Black White Shad

10 Spinnerbait Blades ~ Willow #4 ~ Black White Shad

10 Spinnerbait Blades ~ Willow #5 ~ Black White Shad

Super Heavy Duty Buzzbaits and Spinnerbaits for Big Bass

These are the ones you want for the biggest bass in the baddest cover.

Huge 6/0 Long Shank Hook. This Mustad Ultra Point is the biggest, longest, strongest stock spinnerbait hook on the market. It's positively what you need for the biggest bass out there.

The style C buzzbait has a heavy duty .051 wire arm.

Style C Head. The Style C head is streamlined to snake right through brush and grass about as weedless as a bullet-shaped Texas rig sinker. It's the same tapered, conical nose shape, and shares the same weedless and snagless advantage as a bullet sinker.

The Style C head is very stable and does not roll over or on its side because it has a "belly bulge" of weight that acts as ballast to keep it from rolling over. This is an advantage over other typically wide, flattened, planing type buzzbaits heads. The wide, flattened types tend to roll over, retrieve to the side instead of straight, collect weeds on the wide head and wedge into brush. The Style C holds its course fairly straight and resists rolling up on its side during the retrieve. Due to it's bullet nose, it doesn't collect weeds or wedge into brush as much.

The compact frame keeps the buzzbait body up closer to the surface. There is a short distance between the nose arm and the blade arm. So it rides up higher over subsurface weeds and limbs.

The long, huge hook is set back so far to make the addition of a trailer hook unnecessary most of the time. This is a plus because having to add a second trailer hook raises the odds you'll get snagged or drag weeds along on the hook, ruining your presentation.

How to Hook a High Percentage of Strikes. As with all topwater baits, there is a knack to setting the hook. When a fish boils up on any topwater or buzzbait, you have to "sleep on them" meaning not set the hook at all. Just keep reeling steadily as if nothing's going on. Meanwhile, a big bass may be doing cartwheels all over your buzzbait. All gamefish, not only bass, miss topwater presentations a good percentage of the time. If you just keep reeling like nothing's happened, most fish will strike again until they grab the buzzbait (or whatever topwater lure) securely, then they'll go down with it. When you feel the solid weight of the fish moving downward, let the fish pull the line tight. All the whiole, you are reeling steadily. Chances are, the fish is not going to let go of its prize, but don't wait too long. Keep in mind, this all happens in an instant. Then set the hook with a solid sweep. Between you pulling on the rod and the fish gripping down on the bait against the resisitance it feels, you can hook a fish almost every time like this. If you master this technique, you will hook most every fish that strikes a properly-designed buzzbait like the one here. Trust me, it can be done! Practice makes perfect. If you do not master this technique, you will miss many strikes and you may find you often have to use a second trailer hook.

1/2 oz Buzzbait ~ Style C ~ Dark Chartreuse Shad

1/2 oz Buzzbait ~ Style C ~ Smallie Special

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Style B Buzzbait. This is a big buzzbait with a total of five blades. Wire arm is .051 diameter. The 6/0 Mustad Ultra Point hook is huge. It's one of (if not "the") biggest stock spinnerbait hooks on the planet. The Style B head shape is very stable and does not roll up on it's side during the retrieve.

The two blades fit together and hammer against each other in addition to the clacker blade that ticks off the other four blades. Overall effect sounds like an old time train chugging down rickety old railroad tracks.

Fast or Slow? Let the Bass Decide. This buzzbait blade configuration can be retrieved fast and fish will explode on it that way. It can also be slowed way, way down (with the rod tip held high) and it will almost gurgle or cluck slowly at slower speeds. Its versatility is an asset of this blade set-up.

Some days they want the buzzbait slow, the next day fast. It's a trial-and-error method to begin each day to discover what the fish want from you, and once you get  results with a certain cadence, refine it, lock yourself into it and stick with it the rest of the day (or for however long as the buzzbait bite lasts).

3/4 oz Buzzbait ~ Style B ~ White Shad

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The style C spinnerbait has a super heavy duty .045 Super Wire arm.

Super Heavy Duty .045 Super Wire. First, the arm is Super Wire, which is stronger and vibrates mor ethan ordinary spinnerbait wire. Second, it is .045 diameter, and that's thicker diameter than normally seen on bass spinnerbaits. It's rare to find thicker than .040 wire on bass spinnerbaits - but this one has .045 Super Wire for the biggest bass in the baddest cover.

1/2 oz Spinnerbait ~ Style C ~ Pearl Blue Chartreuse

Front Blade Painted White Outside, Chartreuse Inside. At first you may think both colors should appear equally visible, but that's not the case. Whatever color is on the outside (white here) is going to be the most visible, about 70% of the visible color will appear white (or what's outside) as the blade rotates. Whatever color is on the inside (chartreuse here) is going to be the least visible, about 30% of the color visible will appear chartreuse (or what's on the inside) as the blade rotates.

Great Flash Plus Two-Tone Color Blades. Back blade is unpainted nickel plated. Front blade is painted white outside, chartreuse inside. This gives you both great flash and great blade color both in the same spinnerbait presentation. It's the perfect presentation of both flash and color.

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1/2 oz Spinnerbait ~ Style C ~ Smallie Special

Willow / Indiana Blades. It's rare to see this pair of blades, but it is one of the best blade combinations I use. This pair has three fantastic things that put it over the top:

1. The blades have concordance or appear to act the same as each other, meaning they rotate and flash tightly in synch with each other
2. The particular pairing appears to emit a bright, active flash. The whole effect in terms of flash, is much more than either blade alone (or when used in other blade pairs).
3. The pair appears to have fast action together. I do not mean to reel them fast, but that they appear to be revolving quite fast together. I do not know how else to describe this blade pair, except to say you've got to see it for yourself. It's a real producer for me, and can be for you too.

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The blades on this bait are huge. Shown next to a quarter. This Style B spinnerbait has an extra long, heavy duty .045 wire diameter arm that enables it to support these two huge Willow blades.

The 3/4 oz Style B head is very stable and does not roll over or on its side with these big blades. It holds the blades perfectly upright.

This spinnerbait has it all - heavy flash and heavy vibration too. Because the wire arm is so thick and stiff, therefore less blade vibration is absorbed by the flex of the arm. Instead, much of the vibration goes down into the spinnerbait head and skirt, making a humpy, jumpy kind of throbbing pulse in the skirt.

The huge Mustad Ultra Point 6/0 hook is the biggest, longest, strongest stock spinnerbait hook on the market. It's positively what you need for the biggest bass out there.

3/4 oz Spinnerbait ~ Style B ~ Pearl Blue Chartreuse

Flat Football Jigs for Bass Fishing
You've seen football jigs before, just never like these!

Our flat football head first appeared a few years back originally as our shakey jig head style with no collar and no weedguard, just a coil clip to hold a worm. Our flat football head shape worked so well that it is now available with a triple cone cut collar and fiber weedguard. Our flat football shape is becoming increasingly more popular with anglers, and several other brands of shakey jigs and football jigs now have the same flat face as ours.

In addition to our flat face, our triple cone cut keeper collar is something new too, at least on freshwater jigs. It has been fairly common on saltwater jig heads, but rarely seen on freshwater jigs. Although now, several other brands are recently starting to use our triple cone cut collar on their freshwater jigs too.

Our flat football style is like our original flat shakey jig, except with our triple cone cut collar and fiber weedguard.

Our  flat football jig is the same design and concept as our flat shakey jig - with the addition of a medium/heavy (not extra heavy) resistance fiberguard and the addition of our triple cone cut keeper collar.

The triple cone cut keeper collar is lengthened to make more room for the skirt collar to seat in between the head and the first (of 3) cone cuts. The second and third cones are to keep a soft plastic trailer firmly in place. Each cone has 360 degrees of gripping hold - or 1,080 degrees of grip total. There's nothing else that grips quite like it!

The flat football jigs are best used with medium/heavy gear from 10 to 16 pound test mono or fluoro line. The hook is stout, but it is not intended for heavy flipping gear or for braided line.

Our flat football jigs come in 3 sizes as shown: 3/8 oz (5/0), 1/2 oz (5/0) and 3/4 oz (6/0) sizes.

Football jigs are the "off-road vehicles" or "ATV's" of jig heads, meaning the wide head lets them rumble and crawl across rough bottom, gravel, rocks that would snag more streamlined jig styles. The broad-shouldered football shape is too wide to drop into small cracks or crevices. With football jigs, the hammer head shape helps keep the jig from falling into cracks or gaps between rocks that eat other jigs alive.

If a football jig does drop into a larger crevice, the head will be too wide across to fully wedge all the way deep down. The crosswise football shape does not let it get too deeply snagged, so you can usually shake or jiggle a loosely-stuck football jig out of snags.

The "T" formation (that the head and the collar make) helps the jig resist rolling over, and the "T" shape causes the jig to perch on top of rugged bottom rubble rather than wedge its nose into debris. The football jig is at its very best on hard bottoms, gravel, sand, shell, in any and all rocks (especially round "river-washed" rocks as opposed to square chunk rock). Speaking of rivers, the football shape is incredible to bounce bottom in a flowing current or tide.

Where a football jig is not best to use, a football is usually not as easy to fish as an Arkey jig in brush, standing timber, stumps, laydowns (or whatever wood), and the football jig fouls miserably in most vegetation.

The shape of this flat football jig in photos may look different depending on the camera angles at which photos are taken, but these are football shape jig heads with a flattened face plate. Available in three sizes: 3/8 oz with a stout 5/0 Mustad Ultra Point hook; 1/2 oz and 3/4 oz sizes both have a heavy 6/0 Mustad Ultra Point hook.

• Triple Cone Cut Keeper Collar. Each of three cones on the keeper collar have 360 degrees of gripping power. When a skirt is used, the first cone keeps the skirt securely in place. The second and third cones provide an additional 720 degrees of grip that will keep a soft plastic trailer bait in place better than any other collar style.
   
• Trimless In-Line Fiberguard. The fiberguard is precisely sized so you never need to trim it, and it is angled low, what I call an "in-line" fiberguard, so it is in line for a perfect hookset. The fish really doesn't even need to depress it. Just fan it out a bit before first using it - and you're good to go!
   
• Stand-Up Action. Obviously it can stand up, but the overall action due to the flat face plate is a lot more versatile than just standing. The jig only stands at rest. When the line is pulled, the "pull point" of the line tie eye lifts the head up so it crawls or glides across the bottom with a tight line. When you stop pulling the line, it noses down and stands up again.  Most people refer to this tail-up standing posture as a craw in a defensive stance. Every time you stop pulling the line, it noses down on bottom and stands up again. However, this is also exactly how fish feed, by nosing down over a meal on the bottom. Even bass feed this way, by putting their noses down, their tails high up, in order to pluck a meal off the bottom. So the tight-line, sliding, gliding and then sudden stand-up action and nosing down when the line is relaxed, that's exactly how fish feed on the bottom - and if there's one thing that infuriates bass, it is to see a smaller critter brazenly feeding in front of them. It causes a pecking order instinct reaction from the bass to peck or strike the jig that's "feeding" out of turn.
   
• Plowing Action. Another action, found only on this football jig due to the flat face plate, is plowing the bottom. When you drag standard football jigs across the bottom, they can really only bounce. There's no other action. Think of standard football jigs as four wheel drive trucks that can drive across rugged terrain. When you drag this flat football jig across the bottom, it plows and pushes. Think of that off-road truck again, but this time envision a snow plow on it. That's the difference between this and all other football jigs.
   
• Lifting Action. The angled face plate also causes lift, and that's a very good thing. Constant rising off bottom and settling back to bottom are what small fish, crawdads and other bottom creatures do constantly. It's their major mode of movement. Most do not just drag their carcasses across the bottom. The lifting and falling glide of this flat football jig mimics the most common rise-and-fall movements of all bottom creatures.
   
• Slamming Action. As this flat football jig lifts off bottom, it does not lift too far. So it will slam the flat face plate head-on into any hard objects that are raised slightly higher than the bottom. This sudden full frontal impact shock - or "slamming" action is an incredible strike trigger.

Between the triple cone cut keeper collar, the in-line fiberguard, the medium/heavy Mustad hook, the stand-up action, nosing down on bottom in a feeding posture, the plowing action, lift-and-fall glide, and strike-triggering slamming action, it's clear that this is no ordinary football jig. That's why we say,

"You've seen football jigs before, just never like these!"

3/8 oz Flat Football Jig ~ Black Blue

1/2 oz Flat Football Jig ~ Black Blue

3/4 oz Flat Football Jig ~ Black Blue

1/2 oz Flat Football Jig ~ Brown Purple

3/4 oz Flat Football Jig ~ Brown Purple

 
3/4 oz Flat Football Jig ~ Brown Sunfish

1/2 oz Flat Football Jig ~ Brown Sunfish

3/8 oz Flat Football Jig ~ Dark Green Pumpkin

1/2 oz Flat Football Jig ~ Dark Green Pumpkin

3/8 oz Flat Football Jig ~ Green Pumpkin Olive

3/4 oz Flat Football Jig ~ Green Pumpkin Olive

1/2 oz Flat Football Jig ~ Green Sunfish

3/4 oz Flat Football Jig ~ Green Sunfish

1/2 oz Flat Football Jig ~ June Bug Bluegill

3/4 oz Flat Football Jig ~ June Bug Bluegill

3/4 oz Flat Football Jig ~ Pale Watermelon Red

1/2 oz Flat Football Jig ~ PBJ Flash

3/8 oz Flat Football Jig ~ Watermelon

1/2 oz Flat Football Jig ~ Watermelon

Wake 'em up this Summer with ima's New Roumba

ima Roumba lure designer Fred Roumbanis

The Roumba has a unique, pudgy look. Once you get over its odd shape and throw it, you'll find it is very versatile.

It may be used at any retrieve speed ranging from as slow as possible, barely crawling it across the surface - to as blazingly fast as possible. It excels at any speed. However, where the Roumba breaks away from the pack and leaves the other topwaters behind is that you can work it faster most any other topwater out there. There are times that speed is the trigger, and it is tough to figure out when. There are times that even lethargic fish that won't go for anything else, they'll go for an incredibly fast speed Roumba with raw instinctive reaction strikes.

There's really no need to give the Roumba any additional rod tip action. All the wild and seductive gyrations are built right into this new style topwater. thanks to ima lure designer and bass pro Fred Roumbanis (shown above).

Due to the crankbait like bill, the Roumba has more side-to-side action on its own, just reeling the Roumba steadily, than most other topwater lures. Unlike crankbaits, the bill is not designed to make the Roumba dive. The bill really only imparts side-to-side action to the bait. It causes the Roumba to move rapidly side-to-side, so it does not need to be reeled and moved forward quickly, and there is no need to give it action with the rod tip. All the fantastic action is already built right into the Roumba for you.

• Body length is 3 inches (75 cm) long, not counting the lip.
• Weighs 1/2 ounce (16 gr).
• Floats at rest.

Hold your rod tip high for best topwater action at any retrieve speed from super slow to blazingly fast - and any speed in between.

Hold the rod tip down to get the Roumba to dip under the surface, and crank the Roumba in a little faster to get it under about 1/2 foot or a foot deep.

No matter how you use it, the Roumba is a lure you should have tied on whenever bass are belting topwaters - or even when they aren't. Sometimes the need for speed is lurking just below the surface - but you'd never know it's there with regular lures. The Roumba is one of the few topwaters that can move fast enough to get bit then.

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Replacing the tail with a feather treble (not included) improves the lure's action.

Get Fit to Flit with ima's New Jerkbait

ima lure designer Michael Murphy talks about the Flit jerkbait

Start with the Right Rod

A key feature of the rod that Murphy likes to use is the rod length. When standing on the front deck, with the elevation of the boat bow above the water, the perfect rod will be able to point straight down as you work it without the rod tip dragging in the water.

"I believe this is critical for ease of use, to hold the rod straight down without hitting the water, but the actual length will be different for everyone. For a shorter person, it may be a 6' rod. A very tall person may be able to swing a 6'9" rod possibly without the tip hitting the water.  Overall, I like a medium/heavy action rod with some good backbone but still a good amount of tip for casting, for working the lure and for playing a fish gingerly if it is barely hooked," says Michael.

A Lesson on Line

Murphy ties his line directly to the split ring already provided on the lure. "As far as knots, any type of good cinch knot goes well with fluorocarbon, and I do like to use fluorocarbon on my Flit." says Michael. By the way, he does not like to use a Palomar knot with fluorocarbon since he believe it increases the chances of knot failure with fluorocarbon.

"The Flit's diving bill lets it get fairly deep - if that's what you'd like to do. If you would like it to achieve its maximum depth, point your rod tip down toward the water to obtain 8 feet of depth on 8 lb fluorocarbon or 6 feet of depth on 10 lb fluorocarbon," Michael says.

The bill takes the Flit to it's working depth, which you can vary based on line used and rod position.

"Also, you may make it run shallower by raising the position of your rod tip. At the max, with your rod tip raised directly up at an eleven o'clock position, you can make it walk just beneath the surface."

"Just keep in mind that line diameter and also line type will make a difference in how the Flit behaves and how deep it dives. The general idea is the smaller the line diameter the deeper the bait will go, simply due to less line drag in the water. You could use this to your advantage to have the Flit behave differently or run at different depths. Again, this will vary among line brands and types. No two lines are exactly the same," Michael has found.

Angler-Imparted Action is the Attraction

There is a "built-in" action to the Flit. It has been painstakingly designed by Murphy to match the hatch, specifically of the herring family (blueback herring, gizzard shad and threadfin) and the Flit mimics the body movements and swimming cadence of these baitfish.

"The Flit catches all three bass species (largemouth, smallmouth and spotted) equally and all very effectively. Since all three species feed on members of the herring family, that makes them all equally vulnerable to the Flit's action. I can tell you, all three bass species eat it most excellently," grins Michael Murphy proudly.

That herring family action is designed into the Flit body shape and weighting for you.

The "inverted pyramid" body shape and internal weighting give a herring family action and movement

However, it's truly the jerk-and-pause cadence that an angler imparts that creates success with any jerkbait.

"Via rod action, you can make it look disoriented baitfish or like a normal baitfish. Whatever condition or mood the bass may be in, you can match it with rod action. The Flit can be fished with erratic, irregular jerk and pause techniques, or you can apply more consistent, balanced walking side to side motions. To illustrate the wide range of actions possible, first consider the erratic or distressed baitfish action often used with say, a Zoom Fluke or other soft jerkbait. The opposite of that is the smooth, consistent almost hypnotic effect achieved with a topwater like a Super Spook for example. Both the random Fluke type action and rhythmic Spook type are very effective actions. Now imagine being able to do that all and more, in just one lure (the Flit), better, with a wider range of actions, and where you are more easily able to catch the fish that are just slapping at it and not really willing to commit," reveals Murphy.

When paused, it will suspend motionless (or rise or sink ever so slowly depending on water temperature), and that's the strike trigger which a jerkbait does better than any other lure type. "The sudden suspended pause is so effective a trigger, that is the moment when 90% of strikes occur," explains Michael.

Putting It All Together

"With the jerk component of the action you create, you may need to vary the jerk for different seasons or different reasons. For example, the colder or less active the fish are, the tighter the walk or the shorter the jerks I will use with a longer pause. The warmer or more active the fish are, the harder I will lay into the jerks and the more frequent and consistent I will work the lure with less pauses."

"So I will vary both the jerk component of the action and also vary the pause component of the action as mentioned above, for different seasons or different reasons."

"Which one may be the most important part, the jerk or the pause, depends on the time of the year or the mood of the fish. Overall, both the pause and jerk are equally important."

"I typically reel a quarter to a half a turn per jerk. With this type of technique, the reel is nothing more than a tool to hold the line, and a good drag and high speed retrieve when fighting a fish."

"Overall, the most important elements to working a jerkbait are the rod action and how you work the rod. In addition, your attention to small details of what happens to the jerkbait on different jerks and rod angles, and then tying all these variables together to discover what is most persuasive action to the bass on any given day."

"You need to look for and discover a cadence or lure action pattern that gradually materializes most days. You find this by paying attention to the details that spell out what is the fish's preference for the day or for the situation at hand. Once you catch a few on a certain sequence of jerks and pauses, rod angle and all, you may find all your fish going for that same pattern of jerking-pausing for that particular day or moment. Get tuned in to the day, and catches can be unreal. No other lure will come close to what a jerkbait does."

The Ultimate Table-Turn Trick

In hockey, there's the elusive and highly-respected "hat trick". With the Flit, you have the masterful "table turn trick."

"There is a neat technique that I discovered with the Flit, and it is the only jerkbait I have found you can do it with, because it has such tight walking action. With the right among of slack before the jerk and immediately after allowing the bait to glide, you can make the Flit literally do a 180 degree about-face and turn the tables on a following fish. If the fish is trailing close enough and not willing to commit, you can make it bite out of mere reaction with this 180 degree turn-around maneuver. Bass don't have hands to swat, they can only use their mouth, so when you turn the tables on a bass like this, it tends to result in a catch. This does take practice, but it is one of the absolute neatest thing you will ever experience. Pull this table turn trick on them, and non-commital bass will hit out of sheer reaction to the 180 turn-around. As I say, practice this so you are able to perform it flawlessly, and you will nail followers that may not have otherwise hit the lure."

Based on Basic Bass Behavior

"If there's one mistake I see many anglers make with a jerkbait, it's pigeonholing the technique. The belief that it is only good for spring and for post frontal situations," isn't true says Murphy.

"The Flit is good all the time. What it does, what's built into it and how you use it, it's all based on basic bass behavior. Bass are always eating, it is just a matter of how or where, and the Flit's designed to make the best sense for how a bass can ambush its prey, any day, every day."

Deep Runner Spinnerbaits

These 3/4 oz Style H spinnerbaits have much of their weight hidden beneath the skirt. This not only gives a more streamlined appearance, but the weight mass beneath the skirt presents an attractive fish belly effect.

The spinner blades are a little smaller than usual, and that lets the spinnerbait run deeper than usual. It is a great bottom hugger that will follow the contour of the bottom in deeper water.

Although the blades are a little smaller, the wide spacing permits both blades to vibrate strongly. This spinnerbait has a stronger vibration than you'd expect.

Super Wire Arm. The thinner than usual .032 diameter arm is also a contributing factor to the strong vibration. The arm, being superwire has up to 50% more vibration and is 30% stronger than ordinary wire.

This is a real sweet set-up in a deep-running, bottom-hugging spinnerbait. Please enjoy!

3/4 oz Spinnerbait ~ Style H ~ Gold Shiner

3/4 oz Spinnerbait ~ Style H ~ Shad-A-Delic

3/4 oz Spinnerbait ~ Style H ~ Pearl Blue White

3/4 oz Spinnerbait ~ Style H ~ Pearl Blue Silver

3/4 oz Spinnerbait ~ Style H ~ Bleeding Pearl Blue Chartreuse

1/2 oz Spinnerbait ~ Style H ~ Pearl Blue Chartreuse

Spinnerbait Tips for Bass Fishing in Mexico
(or Anywhere Else That Trophy Bass Abound in Heavy Cover)

The spinnerbait is the second most popular lure in all of Mexico.

Only the highly snag-proof Texas rig is more popular than the spinnerbait.

The spinnerbait is surprisingly snag-proof itself.

The strong wire arm acts as fantastic snag protection for the spinnerbait hook.

The incredibly snagless spinnerbait can be fished through heavy cover that would snag other kinds of lures.

Crankbaits, topwater, lipless, swimbaits are all other popular lures in Mexico - but none can not go in heavy cover where the spinnerbait can go.

So that's why the spinnerbait is #2 favorite in Mexico (after the Texas rig), because a spinnerbait can go anywhere a bass can go, even the heaviest cover.

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The All-Around Favorite Spinnerbait in Mexico is...

Half white / half chartreuse skirts or pure 100% white skirts are the two most favorite colors in Mexico.

Half chartreuse / white or all white spinnerbaits work everywhere all the time under most conditions across Mexico and across the world.

Many anglers may say they prefer the all white in relatively clearer water and opt for the chartreuse / white in relatively darker water.

Traditionally, anglers on all Mexican lakes favor 1/2 oz and 3/4 oz spinnerbaits with two medium size Willow blades. One silvery nickel blade in front, and a gold blade in back. By medium size blades, we mean a #4 front Willow and a #5 back Willow. The double Willows are the most popular in Mexico and worldwide.

In USA, there are some smaller 1/4 oz or 3/8 oz spinnerbaits, but these are often too small and the wire arms are too thin for Mexico. Bass grow big in Mexico and they want a big spinnerbait! You will catch many, many bass - big and small - on 1/2 and 3/4 oz spinnerbaits in Mexico.

Therefore, on bright, clear days (most fishing days are bright and clear) the number one most popular combination in all of Mexico is... either a 1/2 or 3/4 ounce with double Willows - front silver #4, back gold #5 and a half chartreuse / white or 100% white skirt.

Second most popular in Mexico is a small front Colorado (#3 gold) and a back Willow (#5 silver nickel) and a half chartreuse/white or 100% white skirt. Indeed, 90% of all spinnerbaits in the world are one of those two configurations: 1) double Willows, or 2) small Colorado with Willow.

Double Willow blade spinnerbaits are more popular than all other blade pairs.

A small front Colorado with a back Willow is the second most popular blade pair.

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Truly Trophy Bass Prefer...

One other size - the bigger 1 oz spinnerbait is recommended for the real trophy bass.

In Mexico, the 1 oz is not used quite as much as the 1/2 or 3/4 oz size.

What makes the 1 oz special for trophy bass is the 1 oz can support bigger blades sizes - like a 5-1/2 Willow in front and a #6 or #7 Willow in back.

Smaller (1/2 and 3/4 oz) can not truly support the bigger blades. Only the 1 oz can carry bigger blades.

So the 1 oz with bigger blades is truly the special trophy bass spinnerbait. It is a bigger spinnerbait than usual - for bigger bass than usual.

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Biggest Bass Spinnerbaits on Planet Earth...

Some of the very biggest spinnerbaits that you are able to cast for bass are 1-1/2 ounces - but they are relatively rare. Almost nobody in Mexico uses the 1-1/2 ounce size - but they should. Reason is the 1-1/2 can support larger size #7 and #8 Willow blades.

Smaller spinnerbaits - 1/2, 3/4, 1 oz - can not support the very big blades like the 1-1/2 oz can.

#7 and #8 are the very biggest size Willow blades on the planet, and #7 and #8 blades on 1-1/2 oz spinners will catch the very biggest bass on earth - many of which are all swimming around in Mexico right now!

1-1/2 oz spinnerbait supports the biggest blades for the biggest bass.

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Very Best Days and Times for Spinnerbaits

I have found my best success on spinnerbaits is when it's windy. Whenever the wind makes a ripple or "chop" on the water, spinnerbaits are best.

Also overcast, cloudy days, rainy days or early in the morning or late in the evening when the light is dim (low light) are best times for spinnerbaits.

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Best Colors for Dark Times of Day - and for Dark Water

Keep in mind, soft plastics in dark colors - watermelon, green pumpkin, black soft plastics work all the time.

Just like dark plastics, dark spinnerbaits can work at any time too.

Green pumpkin/olive spinnerbait with watermelon red soft plastic trailer bait.

Especially where the water color is dark, use dark color spinnerbaits.

Also at dark times of the day - very early in the morning, very late in the evening and at night, dark color skirts and heads painted dark are at their best:

• black
• black red
• black blue
• june bug (dark purple)
• dark green pumpkin
• watermelon red

Under dark conditions, you can try dark blades to match dark skirts:

• copper blades
• painted black blades
• silvery nickel and gold blades go fine with dark spinnerbaits too

Also remember that the plentiful tilapia, crayfish and other small fish are dark. That means dark spinnerbaits can work absolutely anywhere just about anytime that bass feed on small dark baitfish and crayfish.

Dark colors of loud, thumping Colorados work in dark water, in low light very early or very late in the day, at night or in cold water.

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Seasonal Spinnerbait Tips

In general, seasonally:

• Spring and Autumn: Bolder, brighter, more colorful spinnerbaits (like fire tiger or 100% chartreuse) are good for spring and fall when bass are more aggressive. In spring, bass are more aggressive to protect their nesting areas. In fall, bass are aggressive in order to impulsively feed more to gain fat to last them through the winter slow-down in metabolism. This is why spring and fall fishing can be the best times, because bass act more aggressive and are less cautious about what they bite then.
• Summer: Bass do not have the spawning aggression or the fall feeding aggression in summer. This is when the water is hottest and bass metabolisms are at their highest and sharpest in summer, making bass more alert and cautious. More neutral, less flashy, more subtle "finesse" colors and smoother, more fluid Indiana blades are good choice in summer.
• Winter: Darker colors (think black) and loud, thumping Colorado blades tend to be good choices in winter or when the water temperature is cold and bass metabolism slows down. Use slower retrieve speeds with more pauses on the bottom in winter than other seasons too. The thinking behind this is the darker, slower, heavier beat of the Colorado spinnerbait makes a more deliberate target for the chilly winter bass. Even in Mexico, bass metabolism slows down in the little bit colder water in winter.

Smooth Indiana blades and neutral color "finesse" spinnerbaits work in hot summer.

However, there are no real rules for spinnerbaits. Some kind of spinnerbait will work every day under all possible conditions.

If you are willing to experiment with different blades, different skirts, different retrieves and different fishing locations - you may be able find the "lucky spinnerbait combination" on any day.

Fact is, on every fishing trip I've made (since I started counting this) for over three years now. I have caught at least one to many good bass on spinnerbaits every trip. It is not always easy to find out the "lucky spinnerbait combination" but it isn't impossible either. Just try a few different ones until you start to get bites. Bass will bite one kind or another of spinnerbait every day.

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Try Different Blade Shapes Every Day

There are three basic different blade shapes. Actually, there are more than three, but these are the three most common:

1. Willow: Long and slender shape, the most popular worldwide. Many anglers only use Willows.
2. Colorado: Very round shape, rounder than a soup spoon. Emits strong vibrations. Good for dark water, at night, when water is cold.
3. Indiana: Teardrop shape. Not as popular as Willow or Colorado. Very smooth spinning blade. Good for clear water, bright, sunny days, when hot water in summer or when bass are more alert and cautious.

Many days, bass may hit all three blade shapes. On some days, they may seem to want one shape more than the other two. It is often unpredictable. You have to fish day-to-day to keep up with what's happening out on the water. If you can not be on the water day-to-day (most of us cannot), then "trial and error" is the only way to try to find what blades seem best each day. Just try them.

Most anglers only use double Willow blades. However, the angler who experiments and tries all three (Willow, Colorado, Indiana) ever day, he or she will have more luck and catch more bass over the season. The angler who only uses Willows will have less luck and catch less with spinnerbaits over the season.

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Try Single and Double Blades Every Day

Most anglers only use double blades.

Single blades are not used as much.

It does not sound as if it should be correct, but it's true that a single blade vibrates harder and throbs stronger than double blades.

And a single blade can be retrieved more slowly at slower speeds than double blades.

So anglers should always experiment with:

• single Willow blades
• single Colorado blades
• single Indiana
• double Colorados
• double Indianas
• double Willows (the most popular)

There is really no way to predict what blade combination will work when. You just have to try them and see if bass want them or not. Overall, the angler who shows bass different blade combinations, that angler will have more luck and catch more bass over the course of the season.

Although they are not used a lot, painted blades can also work. For example:

• two white blades
• one white blade and one chartreuse blade

The angler who tries painted blades will have more luck and catch more bass over the season.

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Shallow Water

Spinnerbaits are mainly used in shallow water.

"Ticking the tops" with a spinnerbait is a phrase used for when bass are situated up high near the water's surface in the tops of flooded brush or emergent tree limbs.

In these situations, a relatively lighter 1/2 oz spinnerbait is used to "tick" or bump the tops of the brush and trees. "Ticking" the wood triggers bass to hit. The 1/2 oz size is best for this since it is lighter and bounces more easily off brush without snagging. Heavier 3/4 and 1 oz will snag more frequently when "ticking the tops" like this.

On the other hand, when you have to cast far distances and "cover the water" on shallow flats however, the 3/4 and 1 oz cast further, more accurately and cover more water than the 1/2 oz.

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Deep Water

Spinnerbaits will work well in deep water also (10 to 30 feet deep).

Most anglers do not use spinnerbaits deep. It's hard to do.

Fishing spinnerbaits deep is the sign of a true expert.

It's important to keep a deep spinnerbait near the bottom. If it isn't near the bottom, your chances for a bite are poor.

Many anglers know that a Texas rig, for example, in deep water must be kept on the bottom. Also a spinnerbait must be kept on or near the bottom in deep water.

Keeping a spinnerbait near bottom in deep water means you must give it plenty of time to sink, reel very, very slowly so it stays deep, and stop reeling every 20 feet of the retrieve so the spinnerbait can sink again and again (every 20 feet) until it gets back to the boat.

This is similar to how you keep a Texas rig near the bottom in deep water, except the spinner blades (like a helicopter) make the spinnerbait lift faster and higher than a Texas rig - so you need to reel slower and pause more often to keep the spinnerbait near bottom. The good part about pausing often is that many bass will bite the spinnerbait when you stop reeling to let it sink. They hit the  spinnerbait as it falls.

There is a special name for hugging the bottom with a spinnerbait in deep water. It is called "slow rolling" which means to use the spinnerbait deep and slow, near the bottom.

Another special deep water tactic is to "yo-yo" or "yoyo-ing" the spinnerbait in deep water. This is to lift the rod tip to lift the spinnerbait a few feet off the bottom, then let it fall to hit bottom again. Simply lift, fall, lift, fall and "yoyo" the spinnerbait all the way back to the boat. Most bass will hit when the spinnerbait falls or when the spinnerbait pauses and lays momentarily on the bottom.

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Trailer Baits and Trailer Hooks

There are two different kinds of trailers - trailer baits and trailer hooks - you can add to a spinnerbait:

1. Trailer Baits. Single tail grubs, double tail grubs, curly tail worms and other soft plastic baits can be threaded onto the hook under the spinnerbait skirt to add more size and more action to a spinnerbait. Usually, with a white or half white/chartreuse spinnerbait, try adding a white or chartreuse soft plastic trailer. There are days when bass only want a spinnerbait with a trailer bait added on it. So if fishing is slow with a standard spinnerbait, try adding a trailer bait to see if it helps you catch more bass. Some days spinnerbaits with trailers catch more bass than spinnerbaits without trailers.
2. Trailer Hooks. This is simply a second spinnerbait hook with a small plastic tube used to attach it to your primary spinnerbait hook. You put the second hook's eye inside the piece of tubing, and then insert the point of the primary spinnerbait hook through the tubing and therefore through the eye of the second hook, forming a second "trailer hook" on your spinnerbait. You will catch more fish with the second hook. Especially on days when the fish seem to be "striking short" and missing the primary hook, add a trailer hook. On days when fish are jumping more than usual and you lose them when they jump, add the second trailer hook and they will not be able to jump off easily. The negative aspect of the second trailer hook is it snags brush more - but when fish are striking short or jumping off the hook - a trailer hook will help you catch more fish.

Use One or the Other but not Both. Typically, you would add one or the other (either add a trailer bait or add a trailer hook). It is not usual to add both a trailer bait and a trailer hook at the same time. Trailer baits and trailer hooks are not both used together because they create too much trouble - too much maintenance to fix them. With both, you have to stop and fix almost every cast. Worst of all, they can foul on each other when you cast and waste a lot of good casts that way. So that's why it is easier and less trouble to use one or the other - but not both.

Actually, the most trouble-free way is not to use either one - just use the spinnerbait with no trailer add-ons. But sometimes the bass need either the trailer hook (if they bite short or jump off often) or they need the trailer bait to sweeten the lure and to make it a bigger, more active and appealing bait.

Spinnerbait trailer baits. Thread on hook up under spinnerbait skirt.

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Rods, Reels, Lines for Spinnerbaits

• General Purpose Heavy Cover Outfit:

A medium heavy baitcasting rod, either 6'6" or 7'0" with 50 lb braid is a super set-up for heavy cover. The Falcon Expert Medium Heavy (in either 7'0" or 6'6") is a good example - but there are many other medium heavy rods that will work well.

A light but powerful baitcasting reel is best. You want what's called a "low profile" reel - the lower the profile and the smaller the reel, the better. A number of the newest, smallest reels on the market are incredibly powerful and handle 50 lb braid with no problem. A few examples include Daiwa Sol, Daiwa Fuego and Abu Garcia Revo. They have all the power you'll ever need in a small package.

A small low-profile reel fits right inside the palm of your hand. That makes it more comfortable and less tiring to fish spinnerbaits all day. There is no advantage to a bigger, harder-to-palm reel.

Braid like PowerPro - in 50 lb test - is best for this heavy cover spinnerbait set-up.

This strong rod and heavy braid is required in heavy cover, but there is not enough stretch in the line - and not enough soft "give" in the rod (with 50 lb braid) to help keep a fish hooked when it jumps. That is the moment when you lose most spinnerbait bass - during the jump. So you need to keep the rod tip low to the water at all times, to help prevent the fish from jumping. If you can keep a bass from jumping, you probably will not lose it.

A bass may jump at any time - but a high percentage of jumps occur right away in the first few seconds after the bass bites. Another high percentage of jumps occur at the end of the fight, when the bass gets close to the boat, it jumps. Jumps in the mid-section of the fight are less common. So pay close attention at the beginning and end of the fight, because that is when most bass jump off the hook. Keep the rod tip down near the water to discourage them from jumping at al times with spinnerbaits.

When fishing in areas without heavy cover, the same rod with 30 lb test braid or 17 to 20 lb test fluorocarbon or mono can be used, and these lighter lines actually let the same rod behave softer, bend and "give" more, plus mono and fluoro have much more line stretch. Line stretch helps keep a jumping bass pinned to the spinnerbait better than braid. Mono actually stretches more than fluoro.

• Spinnerbait-Specific Outfit:

There are many rods you will see that are rated or designed exclusively for spinnerbaits. You can see them in  rod manufacturer's catalogs, on web sites or in Bass Pro Shops or Cabela's catalogs, you will see different "spinnerbait rods." These rods are described as being specially-made with rod actions just for spinnerbaits. Unfortunately, many of these are too soft and bend too much for fishing in Mexico. In Mexico, the fish are bigger and the cover is heavier than can be handled by most spinnerbait-specific rods you will see in catalogs or on the Internet.

There are also areas in Florida and Texas (for example) where the fish are bigger and the cover's far heavier than normal. Many "spinnerbait-specific" rods are made too light for all these places, including Mexico.

Your best choice if you want to get a spinnerbait-specific rod is to visit a good local pro tackle shop in Mexico where the owners and sales staff who work there are expert bass anglers. They will be able to recommend, tell you why, and sell the best rods to use specifically for spinnerbaits.

When fishing in areas without heavy cover, in more open water or for deep slow-rolling, one of these spinnerbait-specific rods may have better lure action, better feel of the lure, can be used with mono or fluoro, and will help prevent jumping fish from getting off the hook as easily. However, this rod and line may be too light for heavy cover.

So to be well equipped for all spinnerbait situations, you would ideally want two rods:

1. a medium heavy with heavy braid for heavy cover, and
2. a local pro shop's recommended spinnerbait-specific rod with lighter braid or mono or fluoro for areas without heavy cover.

Spinnerbait-specific rods, like this powerful G. Loomis model #SBR864 can be a good idea - but check with your local pro shop first.

And that's all about spinnerbaits for Mexico!

Buena Suerte!  ~means~  Good Luck! 

Compact Smallmouth Bass Spinnerbaits

Spinnerbaits for smallies may need to be a little different then typical largemouth spinnerbaits at times. A little shorter arms, a little smaller blades, a little smaller profile. A little more compact across all proportions of the total spinnerbait package.

There are a couple of reasons in mind why smallmouth spinnerbaits may be different than largemouth blades - meaning smaller, more compact and concentrated for smallmouth. A lot has to do with the relatively clearer, open water, the relatively cover-free structure of deeper rocky ledges and points where smallies can be found. Those kinds of conditions require a more "finesse" spinnerbait. A bigger spinnerbait may look too clumsy and contrived in those clearer, more open water conditions - especially when it is sunny, not too windy and relatively calm water conditions.

So it is not so much largemouth versus smallmouth (it is partially that) but it is mainly this - different conditions require different spinnerbaits.

Largemouth in thick weeds in stained water for example, a normal size spinnerbait will get noticed more in those conditions. A "finesse" spinnerbait would get lost and be harder to find and locate in thick cover.

Then the largemouth has that huge bucket mouth. I've not officially measured it, but a three-pound largemouth's maw may fit a bigger meal than a five-pound smallmouth. So mouth size matters some.

There are some color differences too. No one knows why smallies relish chartreuse so much more than largemouth or spotted bass do, but it's true.

And in open, deep, clear water, smallies are chasers. So burning a Willow spinnerbait with downsized blades works great.

In comparison, largemouth can't chase as easily in shallow, dirty water thick with cover - so a bigger-bladed, hard-thumping slow-moving Colorado may get favored more there.

In clear water, a semi-translucent, see-through kind of skirt may be best some days - for smallies - due to the water clarity.

In stained to dark water, solid, non-translucent color skirts - ranging from snow white to jet black may be best - for largemouth - due to the darker water color.

Those are just a few quick reasons that come to mind that make the spinnerbaits shown here special for smallmouth especially.

Under the "smallmouth" conditions described above, try these for largemouth and spotted bass also. It's not so much the different bass species, but the different fishing conditions that may make these spinnerbaits productive. Please enjoy!

3/8 oz Spinnerbait ~ Style N ~ Triple Chartreuse

Outside of blades are painted. Inside of blades are nickel-plated on the triple chartreuse (above) and smallie special (below).

3/8 oz Spinnerbait ~ Style N ~ Smallie Special

3/8 oz Spinnerbait ~ Style N ~ White Pearl

Both sides of both blades are painted white pearl on the white pearl spinnerbait above.

3/8 oz Spinnerbait ~ Style N ~ Chartreuse Shad

Spinnerbaits above have shorter, sparser thin-cut skirts.

Baits below have standard size skirts.

1/2 oz Spinnerbait ~ Style N ~ Blue Chartreuse

1/2 oz Spinnerbait ~ Style N ~ Black Chartreuse

Blades below are painted chartreuse on both sides, with orange fishnet on outside only.

1/2 oz Spinnerbait ~ Style N ~ Triple Chartreuse

Slow Rolling Spinnerbaits

You are going to do best slow-rolling in mid-depths whenever you see bait schools on the graph. Often the bait schools will appear flattened down against the bottom - more like long lines of bait strung out along the bottom - at the depth you desire to slow roll. These could be shad or pelagics (minnows, shiners, etc.) but may also be bait-sized panfish (sunfish, perch, crappie, etc.) or young-of-year fish of whatever species. They may be feeding on some sort of concentration, migration, hatch or bloom of minute bottom life. Often, the baitfish you graph may be lined up in bands at a certain specific depth. For example, you may troll around and watch the depthfinder between 15 to 20 feet deep, but only mark the bait schools close to bottom in a narrow band at 18 feet deep, with little or no bait marked at any depth in between 15 foot to 20 foot mark, only a concentrated band of bait at 18 feet (for example). These "bands of bait" are some of the best situations to slow roll spinnerbaits deep.

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Style N Slow-Rollers

If you are slow-rolling in relatively open water where you can make a good cast and cover a good stretch of bottom, I tend to favor the 1/2 oz Style N spinnerbait with the blade set-up you see here. In particular, the Willow gets a little "lazy" in this set-up and it does not spin so hard behind the Colorado shown. So the Willow doesn't make as much lift as usual, so this set-up tends to stay down deep a little better than usual.

This slow rolls best at or around the 18-20-22 foot mark. I often read or hear that heavier 3/4 to 1 oz spinnerbaits are better-suited to such depths. However, this 1/2 oz Style N set-up will stay down at the 18'-22' depth all day long (provided you can make a lengthy cast with it and slow-roll it back to the boat. I catch an awful lot of fish at this depth range on this spinnerbait set-up.

Slow rolling the 1/2 oz Style N set-up you see here is a good deal for me.

I don't know exactly what it is about this set-up that makes it slow roll that depth so well, but it does.

Of course you can use it for casting shallow, fishing up near the surface or any other way you'd use a spinnerbait. It's not just for slow-rolling - but truly excels in every way you use a spinnerbait. Please enjoy!

1/2 oz Spinnerbait ~ Style N ~ Pearl Blue Chartreuse

1/2 oz Spinnerbait ~ Style N ~ Triple Chartreuse

1/2 oz Spinnerbait ~ Style N ~ Green Shiner

1/2 oz Spinnerbait ~ Style N ~ Smallie Special

1/2 oz Spinnerbait ~ Style N ~ Gizzard Shad

1/2 oz Spinnerbait ~ Style N ~ Pearl Blue Silver

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Style H Single Willow Slow-Rollers

Style H is a hidden head model, meaning much of the head weight is hidden beneath the skirt. This gives it a more streamlined profile, with a smaller head size ahead of the skirt. The hidden section beneath the skirt helps add an attractive fish belly effect to the overall set-up.

The single Willow without any components on the arm also helps lend a more streamlined appearance. So between the hidden head and without a second blade and other arm components, it's more "finesse-looking" or not as big and bulky as usual.

The single Willow set-up is often favored by experienced slow-rollers. The single Willow gives off more vibration than two Willows used together, and fishes slower than two Willows.

Factory-Flattened Slow Willow Blades. True experts in the art of slow-rolling go so far as to even hammer standard Willow blades to make them flatter and therefore "better" for slow-rolling. Flattened blades have more torque, more lift, more vibration and turn slower than standard cupped blades. All these features are considered good for a slow-rolling spinnerbait, so that's why experts would flatten the blades by hand.

The blades you see on the set-ups here come pre-flattened straight from the factory. So every blade is perfectly flattened for the best slow-rolling effect.

Maximum Vibration .032 Wire Arm. Not only the Slow Willow blade but the wire arm is also optimized for maximum vibration. The arm is .032 diameter which vibrates more than the usual heavier wire gauges (most 1/4 to 1/2 oz spinnerbaits are typically .035).

Super Wire Arm. The .032 arm, being thinner wire, vibrates more than usual. Plus it is Super Wire which means it vibrates even more (about 30% more) than standard .032 wires. Not only does it vibrate more, but super wire is up to 50% stronger and bends far less than standard .032 wire.

Shallow, Stained and Grassy Water Too. Also in shallow water, the high vibration of this spinnerbait set-up will work handsomely. In semi-murky or stained water or around thick grassy cover, the intense vibration will draw bass out to belt it! Plus the component-free wire arm acts like a grass-shedding weed guard, and the streamlined single Willow set-up comes through thick grass with less of a weedy mess covering the arm and blade. Please enjoy!

1/2 oz Spinnerbait ~ Style H ~ Bleeding Pearl Blue Chartreuse

1/2 oz Spinnerbait ~ Style H ~ Dark Chartreuse Shad

1/2 oz Spinnerbait ~ Style H ~ Chartreuse Shad

1/2 oz Spinnerbait ~ Style H ~ Pearl Blue White

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Style N Single Colorado Slow-Rollers

The single Colorado is the classic slow-roller set-up. There are regions across the country where local anglers would not think to slow-roll with any other blade set-up except the single Colorado.

The single Colorado can be slow-rolled at any depth, but is particularly beneficial to slow roll relatively shallow from 0 to 10 feet deep.

Maximum Action and Vibration Blade. The Style N spinnerbait you see here is powered by the biggest, maximum action and vibration blade it will possibly support. The blade will not cause excessive torque or unbalance the spinnerbait, so it will operate straight (provided the wire arm is kept tuned and aligned properly. At the same time, it will have the maximum action possible for this Style N spinnerbait. It displays a humpy, jumpy and hard-shaking type action when slow-rolled. Please enjoy!

The single Colorado blade used to power this spinnerbait has as much or more vibration than many crankbaits.

1/2 oz Spinnerbait ~ Style N ~ Bluegill

1/2 oz Spinnerbait ~ Style N ~ Chartreuse White Star

1/2 oz Spinnerbait ~ Style N ~ White Silver

Big Spinnerbaits for Trophy Bass Fishing in Mexico

These fine spinnerbaits are the favorite styles used by top Mexican tournament pros like Carlos Gloria and Dago Luna on northern Mexico lakes (Guerrero, El Cuchillo, Las Blancas, Sugar Lake, etc.) and the international border waters shared with Texas (such as Falcon and Amistad).

They're also the favorites of Mexican and American big bass trophy hunters on trophy waters across southwest Mexico (El Salto, Baccarac, Huites, etc.).

They've been used on trophy bass waters across Texas, including trophy catches made on Lake Fork and Rayburn with these spinnerbait styles.

Whether in Mexico, Texas, Florida, California or anywhere in the world where trophy bass are caught in thick cover on heavy tackle, these spinnerbaits are ideal. Please enjoy!

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Style N Spinnerbaits.

It's hard to gauge size from the photos, but make no mistake - these are extra large spinnerbaits.

These are bigger spinnerbaits than most any others available for bass.

These have heavy duty long shank 6/0 Mustad Ultra Point hooks - a bigger hook size than usual.

They have heavy duty .040 wires with twisted closed wrapped loop eyes.

Due to the extra large blade sizes, the wires are a little longer in order to properly present the extra large blades on these spinnerbaits.

These extra large spinnerbaits are perfect in every proportion for trophy bass anywhere worldwide.

Style N. The Style N is a bullet-nosed shape that's best for fishing through thick cover. Just like a Texas rig bullet sinker shape, the conical Style N shape comes through thick weeds, tree limbs and branches or brush better than most other head shapes.

1 oz Spinnerbait ~ Style N ~ Chartreuse Shad

1 oz Spinnerbait ~ Style N ~ Dark Chartruese Shad

1 oz Spinnerbait ~ Style N ~ Gizzard Shad

1 oz Spinnerbait ~ Style N ~ Rainbow Trout

1 oz Spinnerbait ~ Style N ~ Fire Tiger

3/4 oz Spinnerbait ~ Style N ~ Pearl Blue White

3/4 oz Spinnerbait ~ Style N ~ Brown Sunfish

3/4 oz Spinnerbait ~ Style N ~ Black Chartreuse

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Style C Spinnerbaits.

It's hard to gauge size from the photos, but make no mistake - these are large size spinnerbaits.

These are approx. the biggest size spinnerbaits that are usually available for bass.

These have heavy duty long shank 6/0 Mustad Ultra Point hooks - a bigger hook size than usual.

They have heavy duty .040 SUPER WIRE arms that are 30% stronger, bend less and vibrate up to 50% more than usual spinnerbait wire.

These large spinnerbaits are perfect in every proportion for trophy bass anywhere worldwide.

Style C. These Style C's configured with the blades shown are great for shallow water distance casting across shallow flats. They are rugged to come through heavy cover when used with heavy tackle for trophy bass.

These Style C's are also well-suited for slow-rolling. Indeed the Style C is one of the best slow-rolling spinnerbait head shapes on the market. The way these are configured,  they excel to slow-roll through structure and along the bottom - usually in under 15 feet of water toward the banks and tree lines.

So these Style C's can be cast through thick shallow cover - or can be slow-rolled in deeper areas with equal effectiveness.

1 oz Spinnerbait ~ Style C ~ Dark Alewife

1 oz Spinnerbait ~ Style C ~ Pale Alewife

1 oz Spinnerbait ~ Style C ~ Green Shiner

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Don't Forget the Trailer Hooks.

Prime spinnerbait spots in Mexico usually have thick cover that makes it more difficult to fish with a second add-on trailer hook. In general, you will get a few more snags - but land a few more bass as well - with a trailer hook.

Nevertheless, most anglers will try to get away without using a second trailer hook. Most days, that may seem fine. However, there are two times when trailer hooks are especially wise to use, or put another way, it would be foolish not to use them when:

1. Fish seem to be "striking short" and missing the primary hook, add a trailer hook.
2. Fish are jumping right away and more than usual and you lose them when they jump, add the second trailer hook and they will not be able to jump off so quickly and easily.

As shown below, a trailer hook is simply a second hook with a small plastic tube used to attach it to your primary spinnerbait hook. You insert the second hook's eye inside the piece of tubing, and then insert the point of the primary spinnerbait hook through the tubing and therefore through the eye of the second hook, forming a second "trailer hook" on your spinnerbait. You will catch more fish with the second hook. The negative aspect of the second trailer hook is it snags more - but when fish are striking short or jumping off the hook - a trailer hook will help you catch more fish.

Buena Suerte! (means "Good Luck!" in Mexico).