Timebuilder American Horologist
Archive - May 2007

Watch Escapements Diagrams and Pictures and How They Work In a Watch.

Watch Escapements Diagrams & Pictures

http://horologist.com/escapements.htm

The escapement of a watch is that mechanism which operates in a very precise manner in order to release increments of time through the gear train of a watch.

The diagram below shows the typical gear train of a watch.  The escapement of a watch begins with the escape wheel.  Next you will have the pallet.  The pallet makes contact with the balance wheel as shown in the diagram.  The balance wheel swings back and forth and with each swing locks and unlocks the pallet as it engages the escape wheel.  This arc-of-motion can range from 18,000 beats per hour to as much as 28,000 beats per hour on some wrist watches.

Here are two animated examples of how the escapement of a watch operates.  The first animation shows how the escape wheel and the pallet work in conjunction with each other.  The second animation shows how the entire escapement operates.  This becomes very interesting when you can also view the diagram of the gear train above and relate the animations with the diagram.

          

 

This is a picture of a Hamilton Inline escapement model.

This is a larger version of the Hamilton escapement model.  Notice the hand in the picture.  This will give you an idea as to the size of these rare items.

 

The diagram above shows a typical watch escapement and gear train.

The diagram above shows the typical setting gears that are located under the dial of a typical wrist watch.

 

This is a typical form of escapement that was used in early chronometers.  This is called a detent escapement.

The Straight Line escapement from the Fredonia Watch Company.  Many companies used the term "Equi-Distant" escapement when describing the type of escapement used in their watches.  This is interesting as all escapements commonly found in pocket watches used and equidistant escapement.  The escape wheel is round and has 15 teeth.  The pallet has two impulse jewels which by obvious terms divides the escape wheel into a circular operation, thus becoming an equidistant escapement.

 

The Waltham Friction Fit Balance Staff.

The Waltham Friction Fit Balance Staff.

http://horologist.com/balance_staffs.htm

One of the most innovative inventions of the pocket watch industry was the design of the friction fit balance staff.  These staffs were used not only by Waltham, but other companies such as Hamilton and Howard also used them.  The friction fit staff made it possible to install a new staff without the need to cut out the old staff using the watchmakers lathe.  The only tools required was the staking set.  Click on the following picture to see details of the Waltham friction fit balance staff.

Friction fit balance staffs almost eliminated damage to the delicate balance wheel that could be caused by cutting the old staff out using the lathe or damage cause by distorting to balance arms when staking in a new rivet style balance staff.  Many watchmakers that worked in the days leading up to the friction fit balance staff hailed it as one of the greatest inventions of the watchmaking industry.

How Do I Know What Size My Watch Is And How Is It Measured.

WATCH SIZES By Antique Time Vintage Watch Repair.

http://horologist.com/watch_sizes.htm

The Lancashire gauge for determining watch sizes is of English origin and is the standard commonly used by American watch manufacturers.  By this system 1 5/30 inches was taken as a basing figure and was called naught (0) size.  Every 1/30 of an inch added increased the size one number, every subtraction of 1/30 of an inch decreased the size one number. The size of a watch is determined by its width through the center at the narrowest part of the dial side of the lower plate.  The table below shows Lancashire gauge watch sizes in terms of fractions of inches, decimal inches, lignes and millimeters.

Watch Size Fraction Inch Decimal Inch Ligne Size Millimeter

 

18 1 inch 23/30 1.766 19.87 44.86
17 1 inch 22/30 1.733 19.50 44.02
16 1 inch 21/30 1.700 19.12 43.17
15 1 inch 20/30 1.666 18.75 42.33
14 1 inch 19/30 1.633 18.37 41.48
13 1 inch 18/30 1.600 18.00 40.63
12 1 inch 17.30 1.566 17.62 39.79
11 1 inch 16/30 1.533 17.25 38.94
10 1 inch 15/30 1.500 16.87 38.09
9 1 inch 14/30 1.466 16.50 37.25
8 1 inch 13/30 1.433 16.12 36.40
7 1 inch 12/30 1.400 15.75 35.55
6 1 inch 11/30 1.366 15.37 34.71
5 1 inch 10/30 1.333 15.00 33.86
4 1 inch 9/30 1.300 14.62 33.01
3 1 inch 8/30 1.266 14.25 32.17
2 1 inch 7/30 1.233 13.87 31.32
1 1 inch 6/30 1.200 13.50 30.47
0 1 inch 5/30 1.166 13.12 29.63
00 or 2/0 1 inch 4/30 1.133 12.75 28.78
3/0 1 inch 3/30 1.100 12.37 27.93
4/0 1 inch 2/30 1.066 12.00 27.09
5/0 1 inch 1/30 1.033 11.62 26.24
6/0 1 inch 1.000 11.25 25.39
7/0 29/30 .966 10.87 24.55
8/0 28/30 .933 10.50 23.70
9/0 27/30 .900 10.12 22.85
10/0 26/30 .866 9.75 22.01
11/0 25/30 .833 9.37 21.16
12/0 24/30 .800 9.00 20.31
13/0 23/30 .766 8.62 19.47
14/0 22/30 .733 8.25 18.62
15/0 21/30 .700 7.87 17.77
16/0 20/30 .666 7.50 16.93
17/0 19/30 .633 7.12 16.08
18/0 18/30 .600 6.75 15.23
19/0 17/30 .566 6.37 14.39
20/0 16/30 .533 6.00 13.54
21/0 15/30 .500 5.62 12.69
22/0 14/30 .466 5.25 11.85
23/0 13/30 .433 4.87 11.00
24/0 12/30 .400 4.50 10.15
25/0 11/30 .366 4.12 9.31
26/0 10/30 .333 3.75 8.46

Comparative values of standards of measurement.  1 inch equals 25.4 millimeters, 1 millimeter equals .03937 inches, and 1 ligne equals 2.25 millimeters.

Watchmakers and Horologists. An Interesting Trade In Modern Times.

Watchmakers and Horologists

http://horologist.com/watchmakers.htm

Being a watchmaker is a wonderful trade.  Myself, I never really expected to become a watchmaker.  My first love was the jewelers bench.  All I wanted to do was set diamonds and precious stones.  I loved to carve wax patterns and create beautiful one-of-a-kind rings and necklaces.  I knew how to make diamond bezels for watches.  I had been doing them for years.  I also repaired many watch cases and gold watch bands.  But it was the Rolex diamond bezel that would probably change my life.

As a small child, I did love watches.  Everyone had one, especially the old-timers that were friends of my Grandfather.  They all wore vests, dressed very dapper, and all carried a wonderful pocket watch at the end of a fabulous gold chain.  My Grandfather many times would show me the "workings" of his watch.  I was hooked, and the love of the pocket watch never left me.  I think this is the main reason why I loved to do the "jewelry end" of watches.  I loved to enhance them, repair the bands and add a few diamonds here and there.  I also took great joy in repairing old pocket watch cases.  Again, the worn out old watch could become like new again in the eyes of the owner.

But working on the movement, that strange mysterious ticking thing that somehow measured out the seconds of the day.  Who would do that?  I do remember going into many stores as a child and seeing the little old watchmaker, head bowed, hidden in his micro-world of watch repair.  I was fascinated, amused, but soon walked away so not to annoy these strange little old men.  In all, I became acquainted with five of them.  But it was not until later that I would meet one that would change my life.

  

The year was 1974.  I owned a trade jewelry company.  We did the wholesale manufacturing and jewelry repair for the retail jeweler.  We had many different accounts.  Some were just your common run-of-the-mill ma and pa stores, some where high volume discount jewelers and several were the upper end guild division stores.  These were the stores that carried watches such as the Rolex brand and others like Corum and Movados.  I had often wondered who did the watch repair.  I knew someone did as I often got many Rolex watches that needed bezels made or ones that needed lugs rebuilt.  They were always given to me without the movement or the crystals.  I would do my job, deliver the watch and a few days later, the district manager would show me the finished watch.  They were beautiful, adorned with my bezels or diamond set lug ends.  They were polished and looked "factory."

One day I was doing my appointed rounds delivering jewelry repairs.  I noticed another man delivering watches.  We started talking.  The jeweler and the watchmaker had finally met.  We went to dinner and continued our conversation.  Thus began a relationship that lasted well over twenty years and would have a very great impact upon my life.

The colored picture was taken when Joe was 50, his age when I met him.  The two black and white photos were taken in our shop in the late 80's.

Joseph A. Saitta, Certified Master Watchmaker, the man in the three pictures above, had moved to Salt Lake City back in 1951, from Brooklyn, New York.  In New York, he owned and operated the Reliable Watch and Clock Repair company.  He began his watchmaking career at a very early age working in his uncle's watch shop.  His uncle, Nunzio Lizzio taught Joe the basics of watchmaking.  Later Joe would work for Henry Engle.  Joe's uncle and Mr. Engle learned their trade at the Hungarian School of Watchmaking.  This was at the time the premier college of watchmaking in the world.  Mr. Engle had the most prominent watch repair business in New York.  It was there that Joe completed his training as a watchmaker and thus becoming approved by the National Bureau of Standards, the agency that certified watchmakers in the 40's.  Later the Horological Institute of America certified watchmakers.  Then the HIA and the American Watchmakers Institute  combined and most watchmakers were certified through this combined group.

Mr. Saitta and I decided to combine our services to the trade.  Joe continued with the repair of high grade watches and I continued my trade as a jeweler.  Joe insisted that he train me as a fully qualified watchmaker.  I resisted at first, as this meant letting go of my jewelry trade for the next several years.  I agreed to his training.  I worked on pocket watches at first, and as my abilities improved, I started working on very small ladies wrist watches.  I then moved into high grade watches such as the Rolex line and other fine timepieces.  I learned how to jewel a watch, install new balance staffs, level a hairspring and everything in between.  I became very good at gear cutting.  After about 5 years of training, there was nothing that could not be accomplished at the bench.

Joe and I continued to work together until he retired from the bench.  I continued to run the business.  I have always been grateful that my linage as a watchmaker could be traced back to such wonderful beginnings.  Because of Joe, I learned from his uncle Nunzio and I learned from Mr. Engle.  Mr. Engle always said that the watch was not smarter than you.  These three men were in fact real watchmakers, and they were the best.  They didn't have the high tech machines that we use today to test watches with, all they had was the skill in their hands and the knowledge in their minds.  I thank God that Joe took the time to train me, test me, encourage me and most of all befriend me.  Because of Joe and his foresight and what he passed on to me, the business of watchmaking continues.

The Watchmaker

Mind to Conceive, Eye to Perceive, Hands to Achieve

Coordination in Finger Dexterity

Antique Time Professional American Pocket Watch Service and Repair.

www.horologist.com

Pockets watches have always been treasured by their owners.  It may have been your grandfather's Ball railroad watch, or maybe it is one you found yourself in an antique store.  No matter what the history is, rest assured that we have the PARTS, EQUIPMENT & EXPERIENCE to bring it back to life.

We have one of the largest inventories of POCKET WATCH parts & material supplies available.  This is important to our customers because we usually do not have to rely on material supply houses for our everyday material needs.  This means you get prompt professional watch repairs delivered without delays.

Our Pocket Watch service and repair prices are very affordable.  Railroad grade pocket watches can be fully serviced for as little as $82.50.  Lower grade pocket watches such as seven jewel models can be serviced for as little as $62.50.

We do not cut corners when we service your pocket watch.  They are taken completely apart and all parts are inspected and examined for any defects.  The parts are then cleaned using the latest in automatic watch cleaning machines.  These machines were designed specifically for cleaning watch movements.  Your parts are cleaned in three different solutions.  Our cleaning machines also have ultrasonic attachments which enhance the watch cleaning process.

After the cleaning process your watch is put back together and all parts are properly oiled and lubricated with the latest synthetic lubricants and oils.  These synthetic lubricants last many years giving your watch the highest quality protection against wear.

Your pocket watch is then electronically timed and calibrated using quartz controlled timing machines to insure its proper timekeeping abilities.  Your watch is timed according to your watches original manufacturers specifications.

Your pocket watch case is then polished if desired.  The case is then cleaned using ultrasonic cleaners.  The movement is then installed into the case at which time we make the final inspection of your watch. 

PLEASE TAKE A LOOK BELOW AT SOME OF THE MATERIAL
WE STOCK TO MEET YOUR REPAIR NEEDS

  • Complete Watch Movements & Parts in all sizes
  • Genuine Factory Material Assortments
  • Pocket Watch Dials.  Original & Reproductions
  • Glass Watch Crystals For Pocket Watches & Wrist Watches
  • Plastic Crystals By B&B, Rocket, & GS.
  • Mainsprings, Hairsprings, Balance Staffs
  • Roller Jewels, Balance Jewels, Cap & Plate Jewels
  • Pocket Watch Case Parts, Stems & Crowns, Sleeves
  • For The Finest In Professional Pocket Watch Repair Visit Antique Time

    http://horologist.com/pocket_watch_repair.htm

    Antique Time Vintage Watch Repair. Rolex Repair and Service.

    www.horologist.com

    We specialize in the precision repair and service of Rolex Watches.   Antique Time is also your source for Professional Service of American Railroad Grade Pocket Watches.   We maintain a large inventory of Genuine Factory Parts.  In addition to servicing your watch movement, we also have the ability to rebuild watch cases and watch bands.  We repair and size all Solid Gold Watch Bands.

    Rolex Case and Band Repair Is Our Specialty

    WE OFFER THE FOLLOWING SERVICES

  • Professional Rolex Watch Repair Service
  • We Use Genuine Factory Watch Material For Most Repairs
  • Complete Overhauls of Vintage American Pocket and Wrist Watches
  • We Service Most Mechanical Watches.  Gruen, Omega, Tissot
  • Hamilton, Waltham, Elgin, South Bend, Rockford, Illinois
  • We Stock All Sizes of Pocket Watch Glass Crystals
  • Solid Gold Watch Case and Band Repair.
  • Pressure Testing of Watch Cases to 3 Atmospheres & Beyond
  • Complete Jewelry Repair Service, Stone Setting, Sizing & Soldering
  • The Rolex watch is a beautiful machine comprised of hundreds of precision parts all working in unison to precisely measure the escapement of time.  Power delivered through the gear train by the mainspring is transmitted to the fast beating balance wheel, that due to its rapid arc of motion, is largely unaffected by external forces exerted upon it by the person wearing this fine tuned machine.©  Text from an article by Stan Hoffman. All rights reserved.

    http://horologist.com/rolex_service.htm

    Be Sure To Visit Antique Time For Professional Rolex Service and Repair.


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